Tobermory to Loch Sunart (Salen)

The forecast this morning was NE force 4-5, going round to the SE within 48 hours, and although the wind was expected to drop tomorrow neither of us fancied heading out round the top of Mull and down the west side. We did want to visit the Treshnish Islands, but the pilot discouraged us with talk of exposed anchorages, and we decided that a visit to Loch Sunart would be more enjoyable.

Photo: Allan Fraser, Touch of Grey

We left the berth just before ten, and raised sail within the harbour. It was very calm there, with hardly any wind, and we ghosted out at 1½ knots with the wind almost dead astern. This was just a sheltered harbour effect though, and as soon as we cleared Rubha na Leip the wind was on the port bow, force 3-4.

We had bent on the no 1 jib, but as the wind picked up and the  power kicked in half way across the Sound of Mull I regretted it, until Julian suggested we reef the main. We put a couple of rolls in, and steering became much easier! We were still touching 5 knots at times, with seas rolling up behind us. It felt quite cold, and I gave the tiller to Julian while I went below and put my oily trousers on.

The entrance to Loch Sunart has a fair few rocks in it, but having a chart plotter in the cockpit makes the pilotage in really simple. All traces of swell vanished as Big Stirk fell behind, and the wind eased too. A small lugger came sailing out of the Loch on starboard tack, while we were on port. Julian decided to tack, so we would be well clear of them, and as I pulled in the jib sheet the end of it appeared from forward. Luckily the starboard sheet was still attached, so I could furl the jib away.

Since the main was slightly reefed the balance with just the stay sail was not too bad, so we tacked back round onto our course into the loch, with the lugger well astern of us. Julian went forward and brought in the jib to retie the sheet, and we were soon inside Loch Sunnart sailing with three sails again.

The wind dropped in the shelter of the Ardnamurchan peninsula, and Julian decided we should shake the reef out. I decided I should be the one to do it, because Julian has been doing nearly all the sail raising, but ran into a problem immediately. As I lowered the peak, to take the pressure off the gaff saddle so I could raise the throat, the Scottish courtesy flag which we had been flying quite high up the flag halyard got caught in the peak halyard block. Julian had to come back off the wind to pull it free, and then I could get the peak down. Unfortunately it did not help, as I could still not pull the throat halyard hard enough to pull the throat up and unroll the reef. Julian had to do it, which I find annoying. I used to be able to raise sail by myself! Julian thinks it is because of the bigger main and longer gaff, and wants an extra purchase to help get the throat up and properly tight, which he finds difficult too.

Loch Sunnart is a lovely place to sail. Very picturesque, with many islands and anchorages to explore, and winding enough that the waves get little chance to build. We wound our way round the top of Oronsay, then south of Rigsa, then north of Carna in bright sunshine, with occasional rain clouds overhead, that never opened above us. The winds were interesting once we were clear of Carna, dying away to almost nothing, then gusting, so we could go from 1.6 knots to 4.2 in seconds, although the wind direction stayed constant.

We ate lunch on the move, then lowered the sails just outside Salen and motored into the inlet. Our charts and pilot book only talk about moorings, but the Welcome Anchorages magazine which is published every year promised a pontoon, and it was easy to spot as soon as we were inside the entrance. 

A yacht had been motoring up the loch behind us as we sailed, and it came past as as we motored slowly in. Anegada was moored up on the pontoon while we were still getting our fenders and ropes sorted, and took our lines as we came in, which was very helpful!

We were only just tied up when the harbour master appeared to tell us about the facilities and offer suggestions about what to do locally. She was very friendly and welcoming.

We took her advice about a walk up the hill just above Salen, and had an afternoon stroll in the Sunnart Oakwoods Forest. There were some fallen trees by the path, and Julian spotted a likely ensign pole, so rescued it from rotting.

The views were superb, and I would highly recommend it.