Upper Loch Sunart

Today was a fasting day. We woke in time for the 7:10 am Stornoway Coastguard weather. The easterly F6 was still there. It was a fantastic morning, sunny and still. We showered in the new shower block which works really well as a family bathroom and had porridge for breakfast. We still had some double cream left over from the pineapple and we allowed ourselves the indulgence of having some on the porridge. Then we prepped the boat and left.

Out in the loch there was a little wind so we raised sail and pottered out at about 1 ½ knots. We were just making against the tide. We ‘tacked’ east and it died completely, leaving us drifting slowly backwards with the tide. Reluctantly we put the engine on and motored up the loch. It was absolutely beautiful. I got to work making the birch branch I cut off a fallen tree into an ensign pole. Alison steered. We dropped the main and left the stay sail up for luck.

Every now and then we cut the revs and took pictures. We took about 80.

At springs the tide runs at 3 ½ knots through Laudale Narrows. As we approached we could see a line on the water. West of the line the water was smooth. East of it were ripples. As we crossed the line Alison could feel the pull of the tide on the tiller but it was really weak.

We got to the head of the loch at Strontian around 12:30. There were plenty of unused buoys but I fancied anchoring. We dropped the hook next to a moored yacht and had our meagre lunch and then rowed ashore for a walk.

An elderly gentleman was reading his paper in his car and asked about the boat. We had a nice chat about the development of moorings and how they were helping the local economy. He was about the same age as Robinetta.

The pilot book’s instructions for anchoring mention an obelisk. It is a war memorial above the road and gives fine views of the loch. As we came down to the road a passer-by said what a nice day it was for me to be taking my young lassie out for a walk.

Strontian has a hotel, a petrol station/post office/general store, a police station, a pottery/craft shop a supermarket and restaurant, a tourist information centre and a large camp site. It was a lead mining village and gives its name to the alkali metal element strontium. We can’t remember if we camped here on honeymoon.

The anchor came up cleanly with a little mud on one fluke and we headed back towards Garbh Eilean where we planned to anchor for the night. This time as we passed through the narrows there was a proper rost and the boat swung in several directions, but again, the pull was weak.

When we got to the anchorage Alison was initially sceptical but we motored around and found a perfect spot and put out 30m of chain in 10-15 feet of water. That should hold us even if the threatened F6 happens. The anchorage is stunningly pretty.

We sat in the cockpit enjoying the view and listening to the Martyn Bennett album we had bought in Tobermory. Magic. Then we had our meagre dinner.

Alison found she had picked up a leaflet for a wildlife hide and it was exactly where we were. You can see seal, heron and occasionally eagles and otters. I suggested we go for a tour around the bay and the island in Worm. It was lovely. We were followed most of the way round by a seal pup who kept under water most of the time but kept coming up to take a peek. We saw lots of heron and cormorants and perhaps some raptors but we were not sure.

I’m in love with Loch Sunart.