I picked up part of the forecast as we came into Out Skerries, and was sure I heard a force 6 mentioned. Julian checked, and it was really there, and still there this morning, so we decided we should stay another night as Sunday's weather looks quieter.
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| waves in the south channel |
Today’s forecast was much nicer and looked good for a gentle sail to Out Skerries, the most easterly point of Scotland. It wouldn’t put strain on Alison’s elbow if we were careful and I kept her away from ropes.
It’s only 12 nm so we weren’t in a hurry. We got Robinetta and Worm ready to go and popped to the shop and I showered and washed up in the excellent facilities.
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| Approaching Out Skerries |
We motored into the voe and pottered about getting the sails up and had a lovely beam to fine reach into the bay. Then the wind died.
We didn’t get another decent sailing breeze all the way to Out Skerries.
We came in the recommended North East Channel and tied up on the ferry pier. The spot a yacht is shown in the CCC pilot was full of big ropes, so we slid back to the shore end. There is plenty of depth there by the pier, but not on any approach to it, so sliding back on ropes is the best option.
The visiting yacht facilities and the ferry waiting room are both operated by the council. This means there is a shower and toilets and a lounge with tea and coffee. It’s excellent.
We went for two walks, one in the afternoon along the roads and another in the evening up to the Bruray Wart viewpoint and along to the trig point and back. This walk overlooks the airstrip.
We met a few locals and visitors along the way, but it’s a very quiet place. The sheltered natural harbour in the middle of three islands is unusual, at least in our experience, and very scenic. We like it here.
I did not feel like doing anything today, and the weather supported that decision. We spent the morning at the Old Haa, and the afternoon on Robinetta sheltering from the rain. All our plans have had to change. I will be able to do very little on the boat until my elbow heals and I can use my arm fully. That means Julian is going to be virtually single handed for at least a fortnight.
Today we arrived back in Shetland after a week away. The journey north went perfectly, we had enough time in Glasgow to get Julian a haircut, and in Aberdeen to do some shopping before getting on the overnight ferry.
The bus north from Lerwick arrived in time for us to catch the ferry from Toft to Yell with time in hand, and we knew the one scheduled bus of the day would be waiting to take us to Burravoe when we got to Ulsta. That was where it all went wrong. Getting off the ferry, with my head full of the next step in the journey, I tripped over one of the metal loops on the car deck, and fell flat on my face.
I rolled myself round to a sitting position on automatic and was immediately surrounded by helpful people. Within moments I had a paper towel in my hand to mop up the blood dripping from my cut lip, and was given the helpful advice to lean forward so the blood did not go on my clothes.
The actual discussions about what to do went a bit over my head as I sat on the deck, but the upshot of it was that Julian and I acquired a personal chauffeur/local guide. Graham Keith, one of the deckhands, spent the rest of his day driving us where I needed to go. First stop was the local doctor’s surgery in Mid Yell. My left arm began to hurt on the drive there, and the doctor decided I needed an X-ray. That meant heading back to Ulsta and on to the ferry, this time in a landrover, not as a foot passenger.
The doctor had notified the hospital, so I walked straight past the triage station and into a cubicle. By ten to two I had 3 stitches in my lip, codiene, paracetamol, and ibuproffin in my bag, and my arm in a nifty sling. I have a very small break in the radial head/neck of my elbow which should heal in 3-6 weeks without needing treatment. The sling should only be used for a few days, but at the moment any twisting of my wrist causes pain in my elbow, so I am keeping my arm still.
I also have a painful tooth (the one that went through my lip) so the nurse said we should see a dentist. The earliest appointment was at 15:50, so Graham drove us to Sandwick where Julian got something to eat at the visitor centre and Graham and I had a drink. The dentist took an x-ray, but could not be sure if the tooth was damaged because of the swelling. She advised checking for damage again in a week.
Graham then drove us back to Toft, and straight onto the ferry, then took us all the way to Robinetta at Burravoe.
Many thanks to all the medical staff who saw me today, and especial thanks to the Yell ferry manager and Graham, who supported us all day way above the call of duty.
We got our trip to Unst on the bus and ferry, but that was the end point of this part of our cruise. We needed to head home to host the spring meet up for the Scottish Area of the OGA on the 24th, so we tidied Robinetta up and put Worm on the pontoon bottom up before taking the ferry home on 20th.
We will be back in a week.
Our plan for today was to have a look at the Old Haa museum, then get some essentials from the shop close to it, before sailing to Unst to anchor overnight.
As we walked along the pontoon this morning we met a local who had been out in his sport fishing boat, and already come back. “It’s a bit lumpy out there. I was nearly sick.” My enthusiasm for the afternoon part of the plan plummeted. The forecast for the day was exactly the same as yesterday, except for mention of an occasional force 6 in the far east of the area (over 60 miles from Lerwick).
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| Burravoe pier and marina |
Julian was still keen, and I do want to visit the boat museum, so after our museum and shop visit we cast off from the pontoon and headed out. Julian set in a course for Unst, taking us inshore of the Muckle Skerry of Neapaback at the southeast end of Yell. The tide really slowed us down going through; we were doing under a knot in places, and the seas were pretty short and steep. They stayed that way even after we were clear of the tidal gate, but we got the main sail up, reefed down to the hoop, and flew the no 2 jib.
We were barely doing 2 knots on the making tack towards where we wanted to go, and that was motor sailing. I handed the helm over to Julian so he could get a feel for the way Robinetta was sailing, and within 15 minutes he decided he had had enough. We tacked round towards the coast, and our speed shot up to over 5 knots with the tide under us. We furled the jib, and tacked round again to head back towards the marina.
Rolling along over the short seas, heading outside the Neapaback Skerry on our return, we saw that the staysail car had freed itself from the track again.
Once we were safely tied up back on the visitor pontoon, Julian did some research on how we could get to the boat museum on Unst by public transport, while I cooked bacon for rolls and made tea. It seems impossible to get to the museum and back in a day from here, especially on a Saturday. Meanwhile Julian is working on a permanent fix for the staysail car problem. The pump for our Lavac toilet stopped working this morning, so it is time to take that apart and give it a good clean. This yachting life is not all glamour!
The north east wind is very cold, but the sun is shining, and the sky is clear blue. Maybe tomorrow we can go for another sail, or we might find a bus to explore Yell.
We got back to Robinetta mid afternoon, and Swan arrived not long after I put the kettle on. She dropped her anchor almost exactly where we had been last night. Two gaffers in one anchorage! Being a training boat they raised their anchor ball, which made me feel a little guilty that ours has not seen the light of day this year. We have been using our anchor light though...
This morning it was my turn to raise the anchor. We were out of the anchorage and under sail, by 08:20, with Swan not far behind. After a day of force 5 northerlies the waves and swell as we came out of the shelter of Aith Voe made for an interesting sail close hauled. I had not properly cleared the cabin for the conditions, and all the leaflets and books ended up on the floor. Luckily the galley had been properly stowed, and nothing was broken.
We sailed best course to windward, tacking whenever we got too close to rocks or skerries, until the wind went too light to keep us heading into the swell. The engine went on at 12:20, and really earned its keep as we entered Linga Sound, between Whalsay and Mainland around 1pm. We intended to go through against the last of the adverse tide as the wind was also against us, so we should get no wind over tide conditions. The sea was absolutely flat, a pleasant change after the waves and swell all morning.
Julian had done the tidal calculations, and we should have only had about 1/2 knot against us, but Robinetta’s speed was down to 1.5 knots over the ground a lot of the time. It seemed to take forever to get past the harbour entrance and fish farm, then the Skate of Marrister beacon (The name is so strange I had to mention it), but eventually we were through, having avoided a large fishing boat coming through the sound in the other direction.
The engine stayed on for the rest of the day, although we were definitely motor sailing, not just motoring. The swell did come back one we left the shelter of Whalsay, but much smaller than at the beginning of the day, and we had a pleasant sail all the way to our chosen marina.
Burra Voe at the Southeast corner of Yell Sound has a pier with pontoons behind it, the entrance is hard to see when approaching from the east, but our trusty chart plotter made sure we did not miss it. We had phoned the pier trust last night to check there would be space, and we were met at the entrance and directed to the visitor berth, which seemed the perfect size for us.
It was lovely to get out of the wind and waves, and we were made to feel very welcome. The weather was perfect for a walk after dinner, and within 15 minutes we were at the top of a cliff looking down at nesting fulmers. I really like Burra Voe!
Lerwick is not a restful place. After mooring on the Alfred dock pontoon we discovered that the wash from the Bressay Ferry made Robinetta lurch violently against her lines and fenders. The ferry runs at least once an hour between 7 am and midnight, and although some of the ferry’s arrivals and departures were gentler that others, all of them caused uncomfortable motion along the pontoon.
We had intended to stay 2 nights, but one was enough. After a walk north along the waterside to book our ferry tickets and do some shopping we headed back to Robinetta and got ready to go. We filled our water tanks, then headed for the fuel dock. This would be our first time filling Robinetta’s diesel tanks directly this season, so it will be interesting to find out exactly how much we use an hour from this point on.
Once Julian had paid for the fuel we headed south out of the harbour just before noon, crossing to the Bressay side of Bressay sound to raise sail. Once we turned the engine off we had a gentle very broad reach down to the south end of Bressay. There was very little swell, and no waves worth noticing, perfect sailing conditions, which continued as we hardened up to sail into Hope Wick, aiming to cross it and head to Feadda Ness, the south end of the Isle of Noss.
The north wind went very light, just enough to fill the sails, but we had steerage way, and our planned trip was only 13nm long, so we did not mind ghosting along at 1-2 knots. Julian put the fishing line out, we did not hook anything, but it was fun to plan how we would cook our non existent catch. We stayed patient until the wind strength rose enough to bring Robinetta up to 3 knots, but it also headed us towards Bressay, so we tacked before we got too close. The increase in wind speed saw a decrease in temperature, and before long we were bundled up in jumpers and sailing jackets. However we were also cruising along at 3.5-4 knots, which made a pleasant change.
Rounding Feadda Ness took a couple of tacks, and we needed another to get round Noss Head, but we did not mind. The bird life was spectacular, and we felt part of a great whirl of gannets coming and going from their fishing ground.
Once we cleared the Point of Pundsgeo on the north east end of Noss we were able to fine reach directly for Score Head on Bressay. We left the abundance of bird life behind and concentrated on sailing as we we were getting tired. Once we cleared the rocks at the end of Score Head we went onto a broad reach and aimed for our chosen anchorage of Aith Voe.
We arrived to find another yacht already there, taking up the perfect anchoring spot, but there was plenty of room to drop our own hook, and settle down for a peaceful evening, free of ferry wash or swell.
We had two options for today. We could go straight to Lerwick, or we could go to Mousa and anchor there and see the broch and then go on to Lerwick.
We also had to factor in my 3pm class. We could do that at either place.
Alison preferred the first choice. We could go to the broch another day.
I wanted to make sure we got to Lerwick well before 3pm. It was 18 nm and we set off at 8am.
The anchor came up easily and I left the chain on deck to dry. We motored north in zero wind and light fog. Visibility was at least a mile but we didn't get good views.
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| Broch of Mousa from |Mousa Sound |
And that was it really until we got near Lerwick. Alison called on the phone and they said to call on VHF when we passed the light house. We did but they couldn't hear us very well. We must get the antenna checked.
We were told to go onto the visitor pontoon in the Albert dock. Our Swiss friend with the Ovni from Fairisle was there and helped us tie up. Swan was right in front of us, in her home spot against the wall and just about to take some primary school children out.
Within ½ hour, three different people had come to talk about Robinetta. It's a great place to bring an old wooden boat.
The bad news is that the wash from the Brassay ferry is really bad. Sometimes it's a bit bad. Sometimes it feels like it's going to tear the pontoon apart. And they are every hour until 1am.
When we came in to Grutness Voe yesterday the dominant feature in my head was the airport, and the fact that we had nearly run out of milk. To get the bus to the nearest shop we walked along the road, and I discovered that we would be getting the bus at the entrance to Jarlshof (Julian already knew.)
We also had a book of Shetland walks with one round Sumburgh Head, that I had already said I wanted to do. That was the day sorted.
I
rowed us ashore and we spent a lovely morning at Jarlshof in bright
sunshine but with a noticeable South Westerly wind blowing, at least
force 4. Then we had a light lunch at the Sumburgh Hotel, before
walking along the coastal path to the lighthouse, with its RSPB
visitor centre.
The scenery and seabirds were stunning, with fulmers, kittiwakes, shags, razor bills, and puffins beginning to come ashore to nest. There were bonxies and black back gulls patrolling above.
Julian walked back to the bay along the high path, while I took the road to avoid stressing my knee. Then it was a row back to Robinetta for a relaxed evening. Perfect.
We are getting closer to spring tides again, so I took a good look at the tidal atlas. If we left Fair Isle at seven we would have a weak tide in the wrong direction for an hour, then a reasonable tide (1-2 knts) for the next six. The unknown question was if there would be overfalls off Sumburgh Head when we got there.
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| Leaving North Harbour, Fair Isle |
The sea state off Fair Isle at 07:00 was a bit lumpy, but we managed to get the main sail up, although we never used it. However it was very helpful to steady us in the swell, and we needed it. There was no sign of the Shetlands until Fair Isle had faded into the haze behind us, so we were steering on the compass and chart plotter. We steered due north, while the tide carried up north east where we wanted to go.
The tide was dying as we got close to Sumburgh Head, but the light wind was straight behind us as it had been all morning. Luckily there were no overfalls, just huge swells that rolled under us. One moment we could see the whole of the cliff face, and the next only half of it. This went on for half an hour with Julian helming.
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| past Sumburgh Head |
We turned towards the anchorage of Grutness Voe at 13:30, and were anchored in 4m by 14:00. It had been a stressfull trip, with the wind behind, and no chance to use the sails, but the anchorage is calm, although every now and then we can hear and see the the planes landing in the airport just behind us.
Alison had set the alarm for 6 am but we were already drinking our tea by the time it went off.
It seemed like every boat in the harbour was going at the same time. There was very little to do before leaving and we slid out of Pierowall along with the work boats.
Out in the sound, I spotted a big fish farm on the route and went north of it nearer Papa Westray. There wasn't much wind but we got the sails up anyway. The sea was calm so we let George steer and had porridge.
Alison has definitely caught my cold.
There was a fair bit of tide pushing us towards North Ronaldsay. It's recommended to give it a wide berth in all weather so I compensated for the tide. It rotates rather than ebbing and flooding on this route so it's hard to know how to steer for best efficiency.
Suddenly, George jumped off the tiller pin. We realised the wind had come up and we could sail. It was a dead run but with the preventer fitted Robinetta was doing over 3.5 knots and it was nice. It lasted about 90 minutes and then the wind died again.
We never got the calm seas that George can cope with again. Sometimes it was a lovely rolling swell and sometimes it was a confused mess that took a lot of effort and concentration to steer in.
Sometimes the tide sped us up, sometimes it slowed us down and sometimes it pushed left or right.
As we got within 10 miles of Fairisle, a wind shift put us on fine reach! We got the jib out but it wasn't quite enough to just sail. So we motor sailed and that was very pleasant.
A couple of miles out, we got the seabirds. Gannet and fulmar to start with, and then puffins and guillemot and skuas.
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| Rock white with nesting birds |
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| Common terns roosting on Worm |
Robinetta sat perfectly still all night and I slept solidly and woke up late. Luckily we did not need to make an early start, but Julian was hauling up the anchor at 9a.m. as soon as I finished my bowl of porridge. Our plan was to take the the last of the adverse tide north to the Copinsay Pass, after which we should have the tide with us all the way to Pierowall. As it is neap tides the added speed was never above 2 knots, but it would have made the trip painfully slow if it were against us. The morning was overcast and cold, but the clouds lifted as the day wore on.
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| Rose Ness, with Copinsay beyond |
The northerly wind was too light to use, so it was motor virtually all the way, with George on the helm from Rose Ness at the exit from Holm Sound to the overfalls by The Bow at the end of Eday. The engine did get an hour of rest between Eday and Sanday, when the light northwesterly breeze combined with the favourable tide and flat sea let us sail along at 3-4 knots.
There are certainly a lot of fish farms in the area. We saw at least 4 in the approaches to Pierowall, and the harbour there is now a bustling place compared to the last time we visited 11 years ago. We had assumed it would be quiet with plenty of space, and we were the only visiting yacht, but the fish farm boats are now a dominant presence.
Once moored up we walked round the bay to Jack's Fish shop. This is normally a wet fish shop, but on Wednesdays and Saturdays afternoon/evening it becomes a fish and chip shop. It will fry you anything that has been caught, so as well as the normal haddock or cod it will also cook you fish long absent from most chippies. Rock (dog fish) used to be a staple, and you can still get it here, along with rarities like halibut. Our haddock was beautifully cooked, an we ate sitting in the sun at one of the park benches outside.
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| Widewall Bay |
Once out of the bay we turned south under sail, and were promptly doing 5 knots... We reefed down to the 1st hoop, and furled the jib, and were still doing 4... We got to Lothar Rock where we would turn to head east half an hour early, and were soon slowed down by the adverse tide. We put the engine on, centred the main sail, and fought our way through the overfalls at 1.5 knots. The helm was very heavy, and we were being thrown from one side to another on our course. This was at neaps, and only 30 minutes before the tide was supposed to be in our favour. Not fun!
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| Old Head |
We made Old Head, where we would turn north, and were soon sailing along with the engine off at 4.5-5 knots. The rest of the sail up to our chosen anchorage for the day at East Weddell Sound was a lovely broad reach, but the sky was overcast, and the north west wind was cold. We were glad to turn into Holm Sound and head for our anchorage. Both of us were cold, and had sailed enough for the day after the stress of getting round Brough Ness.
We
We hoped to go to Widewall this morning but Alison noticed the spot on her arm where she extracted a tick had swollen, with a 1cm pink aureole . Due process resulted in her getting the bus to the hospital in Kirkwall for it to be checked. Lyme Disease is serious stuff and it pays to be careful.
So I was going to have my Gaelic class in Stromness again.
I took the opportunity to find the boat builder in Stromness. I was lucky, both Ian Richardson and his grandson were there and I had a lovely chat and look around the sheds. Ian has retired. He doesn't take on work. But that doesn't stop him restoring a Harrison Butler yacht, or building one of his lovely yole-derived counter-stern dayboats. This one is the biggest yet!
Ian spent some time working at McGruers in Clyde, so he knows our home area too!
Alison got back about 1 pm, with the all clear, as the infected area had decreased with no other symptoms. However she has some hefty antibiotics to take if the redness reappears or spreads. She said we should go to Widewall after my class. That worked out a treat.
Of course, leaving at 4 pm meant dodging everything else coming in. And keeping clear of the ferry going out!
We got a good view of the WW2 defences on Hoxa Head as we came past.
Widewall Bay on South Ronaldsay has two anchorages. The north one is protected from any direction except SW and the south one from south to west, probably more. The forecast is for NW to W so we are in the north anchorage. It is very sheltered from the wind but the swell is pretty uncomfortable.
We enjoy sailing, but for the last week we have been moored up in Stromness, using Robinetta as a floating home while exploring Mainland Orkney by bus with our son. He went home on Friday evening, so in theory we could have left on Saturday. In practice with a solid northerly force 6 blowing we had no desire to move. Julian has developed a horrid cold, and all the walking we did over the week has left me with a painful blister. We have mains power on the pontoon, so plugged in our electric fan heater and stayed snug and warm.
Today the wind was supposed to drop, but at 10 a.m when we could have left it was still blowing hard, and very cold. Nothing had changed by 11:00, so we decided to nurse Julian's cold and my blister for another day. Being outside in the cold just did not appeal.
I don't think we are getting soft, just a little more attached to our home comforts!
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