Leaving Shetland

 It would have been nice to stay another day at Fair Isle, but Julian took a look at the weather and said that if we did not go today we would be here until Tuesday. It seemed sensible to take the weather window we had, so our friendly American neighbour helped us cast off, and we left at 09:10.

Julian raised the main sail as we left harbour, not waiting to go head to wind as there was so little of it. As soon as we turned to head down the east side of Fair Isle we were heading virtually into the wind, getting only a little lift from the main sail which was pulled right in.

There is a notorious rost off the south end of Fair Isle, and we did go a little too close in, so experienced the edge of the Rost of Keels. We were at neaps, with very little wind, but the seas were confused enough to be unpleasant, although never dangerous. There was no chance of George being able to cope, even after we were clear of the rost, so we were hand steering, with Julian helming 2 hours for every hour I managed.

Rather than returning via Pierwall we had decided to go to the east of Orkney, aiming for an anchorage on Sanday. This was 40nm from Fair Isle, so 5 nm closer than Pierwall. We had never been to Sanday, so it was a chance to visit a new island. We were 18 nm from our destination, and sheltered from the Atlantic swell by North Ronaldsay when we realised the sea was calm enough to put George on duty. No sooner was he set up and working than the wind shifted enough for us to sail. Julian got the jib out, and turned the engine off, and we had blessed peace for an hour before the wind faded away again.

With George back on duty I finally got round to asking about the bad weather expected tomorrow. Westerly 22-30 knots, from 7am.

Julian had planned for us to be in a sheltered anchorage, that also had a visitor mooring, but I was not sure I would be able to get into Worm with my damaged elbow if there was any sort of sea. We started to look for alternatives, and settled on Whitehall Bay, on Stronsay. This has a pier we could moor against so I could get ashore, and it was hardly any further. We called the harbour master to check we would be okay, and once he heard Robinetta's draft he was happy to accommodate us.

The wind began to get up a bit as we approach the entrance channel, and we got another 20 minutes of pure sailing before the engine went back on to get the sails down.

There were no yachts against the pier, although there are supposedly berths for 6. We were looking to be blown off in the strong winds tomorrow, so went on the east side of the pier. It took us a while to get settled on a berth by a ladder, and Robinetta's stern did get a little damage from the rough pier before we got the lines set properly.

We setted down in the cabin to relax, but suddenly there was a bump on the stern. We were against the pier again. We gave up on berthing alongside, and put the engine on to head for a visitor buoy. We will deal with how to get safely ashore tomorrow. We are better off on the buoy for the night.

Getting further than planned.

We have been settled down in Vidlin sitting out the strong winds. Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday were horrible, with force 5-7 winds every day and heavy rain. We hired a car and explored Shetland by road. The car also made it easier to go to a couple of traditional music evenings, and to get to the hospital for my stitches to be taken out. Thursday was calmer, as predicted. We returned the car on Thursday afternoon and got the last bus back to Vidlin.

Lots of boats have been sheltering in Lerwick, including Fleur de Lampoul, a lovely gaff ketch. We saw her raising sail from the bus.

Friday was due to be calm again!

We are booked into the traditional sail festival at Portsoy on the Moray Firth coast for the last weekend in June, and given my broken elbow we wanted to head south in easy stages, so we decided to start south now. We wanted the tide with us as we passed inside Whalsay, and when Julian checked the times they were favourable between 4 a.m and 10 a.m. I did not want to miss this favourable window, so we set the alarm for 4 a.m, and were away from Vidlin by 04:50.

We raised sail as we headed out of Vidlin Voe, but there was no wind, and very little swell. We stayed close inshore, and passed Whalsay through Lunning Sound. We were through it before 6, with minimal overfalls at the south end between Bruse Hold and Hunder Holm. George went on duty while Julian cooked breakfast and we headed for Noss Head. This route was only 1 nm longer than going through Bressay Sound, and avoided all the ferry, fishing, and leisure boats coming out of Lerwick. It also had the advantage of letting us admire the sea bird filled cliffs of Noss Head.

We were intending to anchor at Grutness Voe, and Julian had put in a course to there, but we were making an easy 5 knots under engine with some sail assist, and keeping up with the tide, making it favourable all the way to Sumburgh Head. We would be at Grutness by lunch time, and with George on the helm neither of us was having to work hard. We were making such good progress that we decided to go all the way to Fairisle.

Once we were past Sumburgh Head, giving it an offing of about 4 nm, the swell got up and George had to be replaced by a human. Then the tide assist became a cross tide and we slowed down. The 20 miles between Sumburgh and Fair Isle were much slower and harder work, but we were moored up in the harbour by 19:20. The harbour already had 3 yachts in it, and we were aiming for the boat with no one outside it, but people appeared on the 2 rafted together, ready to take our lines so we took up their offer.

Finding better shelter

 We spent an uneasy night against the pier, worrying about the way Robinetta was rolling despite the shelter. When I woke at 05:30 to bright sunshine and a still boat, Julian was already awake, and checking the weather on his phone.

There were south or south west force7-8 winds in the forecast for Shetland, with a period of South East 4-5 this morning. We decided to take advantage of the short lull to head for a more sheltered refuge, and got up immediately. By 06:00 we had the engine on to warm up and were preparing to head out.

We raised sail, reefed right down, in the sheltered water of the harbour then headed out through the North East Channel, the same way we had come in. Our chosen port of refuge was Vidlin marina, on Mainland, just 14nm away.

At first we were sheltered by Out Skerries, and Julian cooked porridge for breakfast which we ate in shifts.

Sailing past Muckle Skerry

The sea state, moderate in the forecast, was luckily on the low side of possible wave height, and although we were bashing away on best course to windward we made good time motor sailing. It really helped that we were on port tack, so I could helm with my good arm and give Julian some time to relax. The wind direction did not give much time for the wave height to build and Robinetta could power through the occasional bigger wave.

Once we got in the lee of Whalsey we were able to turn the engine off for a bit and just sail. I went below and had a little doze, then made us some hot chocolate; the wind was cold and we had got up early, and tea just did not have enough calories to keep us going!

By 11 am we were in Vidlin Marina, trying to moor up. The water was flat, but the wind was fierce, and my normal slow approach to a berth failed to work. Robinetta ended up spinning round, and I had to back off in a hurry to avoid hitting a motor cruiser on the other side of the visitor berth. Controlling the helm and the engine controls with only one hand proved impossible in the conditions.

Julian took over and brought us in against the pontoon before stepping ashore with both lines. I had to motor forward to stop us being blown in reverse. Docking was not easy!

By 11:12 the engine was off, and we were safely moored up, and very glad to be so. We will probably be here until Friday, as we would be foolish to head out with the forecast weather conditions until then.

In Vidlin Marina

 

 

Staying in Out Skerries an extra night

 I picked up part of the forecast as we came into Out Skerries, and was sure I heard a force 6 mentioned. Julian checked, and it was really there, and still there this morning, so we decided we should stay another night as Sunday's weather looks quieter.

waves in the south channel

We tied Robinetta more securely against the pier as she was being blown off hard, and spent most of the day in the warm in the ferry waiting office. We also walked round the islands, admiring the wild flowers nestled amongst the rough grass, before returning to the waiting room to check emails.

Leaving Burravoe

Today’s forecast was much nicer and looked good for a gentle sail to Out Skerries, the most easterly point of Scotland. It wouldn’t put strain on Alison’s elbow if we were careful and I kept her away from ropes.

It’s only 12 nm so we weren’t in a hurry. We got Robinetta and Worm ready to go and popped to the shop and I showered and washed up in the excellent facilities.

Approaching Out Skerries

We warmed up the engine and I untied most of the ropes and Alison let the wind slide Robinetta out of the berth. That wasn’t quite enough and we were in danger of getting blown onto the fence so I took the helm and used the engine to get her head round; luckily the bowsprit had cleared the fishing boat next to us.

We motored into the voe and pottered about getting the sails up and had a lovely beam to fine reach into the bay. Then the wind died.

We didn’t get another decent sailing breeze all the way to Out Skerries.

We came in the recommended North East Channel and tied up on the ferry pier. The spot a yacht is shown in the CCC pilot was full of big ropes, so we slid back to the shore end. There is plenty of depth there by the pier, but not on any approach to it, so sliding back on ropes is the best option.

The visiting yacht facilities and the ferry waiting room are both operated by the council. This means there is a shower and toilets and a lounge with tea and coffee. It’s excellent.

We went for two walks, one in the afternoon along the roads and another in the evening up to the Bruray Wart viewpoint and along to the trig point and back. This walk overlooks the airstrip.

We met a few locals and visitors along the way, but it’s a very quiet place. The sheltered natural harbour in the middle of three islands is unusual, at least in our experience, and very scenic. We like it here.

 

Staying put

 I did not feel like doing anything today, and the weather supported that decision. We spent the morning at the Old Haa, and the afternoon on Robinetta sheltering from the rain. All our plans have had to change. I will be able to do very little on the boat until my elbow heals and I can use my arm fully. That means Julian is going to be virtually single handed for at least a fortnight.

Accidents and help

Today we arrived back in Shetland after a week away. The journey north went perfectly, we had enough time in Glasgow to get Julian a haircut, and in Aberdeen to do some shopping before getting on the overnight ferry.

The bus north from Lerwick arrived in time for us to catch the ferry from Toft to Yell with time in hand, and we knew the one scheduled bus of the day would be waiting to take us to Burravoe when we got to Ulsta. That was where it all went wrong. Getting off the ferry, with my head full of the next step in the journey, I tripped over one of the metal loops on the car deck, and fell flat on my face.

I rolled myself round to a sitting position on automatic and was immediately surrounded by helpful people. Within moments I had a paper towel in my hand to mop up the blood dripping from my cut lip, and was given the helpful advice to lean forward so the blood did not go on my clothes.

The actual discussions about what to do went a bit over my head as I sat on the deck, but the upshot of it was that Julian and I acquired a personal chauffeur/local guide. Graham Keith, one of the deckhands, spent the rest of his day driving us where I needed to go. First stop was the local doctor’s surgery in Mid Yell. My left arm began to hurt on the drive there, and the doctor decided I needed an X-ray. That meant heading back to Ulsta and on to the ferry, this time in a landrover, not as a foot passenger.

The doctor had notified the hospital, so I walked straight past the triage station and into a cubicle. By ten to two I had 3 stitches in my lip, codiene, paracetamol, and ibuproffin in my bag, and my arm in a nifty sling. I have a very small break in the radial head/neck of my elbow which should heal in 3-6 weeks without needing treatment. The sling should only be used for a few days, but at the moment any twisting of my wrist causes pain in my elbow, so I am keeping my arm still.

I also have a painful tooth (the one that went through my lip) so the nurse said we should see a dentist. The earliest appointment was at 15:50, so Graham drove us to Sandwick where Julian got something to eat at the visitor centre and Graham and I had a drink. The dentist took an x-ray, but could not be sure if the tooth was damaged because of the swelling. She advised checking for damage again in a week.

Graham then drove us back to Toft, and straight onto the ferry, then took us all the way to Robinetta at Burravoe.

Many thanks to all the medical staff who saw me today, and especial thanks to the Yell ferry manager and Graham, who supported us all day way above the call of duty.

We like Burravoe, but...

 Our plan for today was to have a look at the Old Haa museum, then get some essentials from the shop close to it, before sailing to Unst to anchor overnight.

As we walked along the pontoon this morning we met a local who had been out in his sport fishing boat, and already come back. “It’s a bit lumpy out there. I was nearly sick.” My enthusiasm for the afternoon part of the plan plummeted. The forecast for the day was exactly the same as yesterday, except for mention of an occasional force 6 in the far east of the area (over 60 miles from Lerwick).

Burravoe pier and marina

 

Julian was still keen, and I do want to visit the boat museum, so after our museum and shop visit we cast off from the pontoon and headed out. Julian set in a course for Unst, taking us inshore of the Muckle Skerry of Neapaback at the southeast end of Yell. The tide really slowed us down going through; we were doing under a knot in places, and the seas were pretty short and steep. They stayed that way even after we were clear of the tidal gate, but we got the main sail up, reefed down to the hoop, and flew the no 2 jib.

We were barely doing 2 knots on the making tack towards where we wanted to go, and that was motor sailing. I handed the helm over to Julian so he could get a feel for the way Robinetta was sailing, and within 15 minutes he decided he had had enough. We tacked round towards the coast, and our speed shot up to over 5 knots with the tide under us. We furled the jib, and tacked round again to head back towards the marina.

Rolling along over the short seas, heading outside the Neapaback Skerry on our return, we saw that the staysail car had freed itself from the track again.

Once we were safely tied up back on the visitor pontoon, Julian did some research on how we could get to the boat museum on Unst by public transport, while I cooked bacon for rolls and made tea. It seems impossible to get to the museum and back in a day from here, especially on a Saturday. Meanwhile Julian is working on a permanent fix for the staysail car problem. The pump for our Lavac toilet stopped working this morning, so it is time to take that apart and give it a good clean. This yachting life is not all glamour!

The north east wind is very cold, but the sun is shining, and the sky is clear blue. Maybe tomorrow we can go for another sail, or we might find a bus to explore Yell.

North to Yell

We moved Robinetta yesterday morning to anchor closer to the shore. We could feel the wind’s strength even in our sheltered anchorage, and Julian was concerned about the length of the row ashore. Once the anchor was set I rowed us ashore to a sandy area, and we spent the day walking on Bressay.

We got back to Robinetta mid afternoon, and Swan arrived not long after I put the kettle on. She dropped her anchor almost exactly where we had been last night. Two gaffers in one anchorage! Being a training boat they raised their anchor ball, which made me feel a little guilty that ours has not seen the light of day this year. We have been using our anchor light though...

This morning it was my turn to raise the anchor. We were out of the anchorage and under sail, by 08:20, with Swan not far behind. After a day of force 5 northerlies the waves and swell as we came out of the shelter of Aith Voe made for an interesting sail close hauled. I had not properly cleared the cabin for the conditions, and all the leaflets and books ended up on the floor. Luckily the galley had been properly stowed, and nothing was broken.

We sailed best course to windward, tacking whenever we got too close to rocks or skerries, until the wind went too light to keep us heading into the swell. The engine went on at 12:20, and really earned its keep as we entered Linga Sound, between Whalsay and Mainland around 1pm. We intended to go through against the last of the adverse tide as the wind was also against us, so we should get no wind over tide conditions. The sea was absolutely flat, a pleasant change after the waves and swell all morning.

Julian had done the tidal calculations, and we should have only had about 1/2 knot against us, but Robinetta’s speed was down to 1.5 knots over the ground a lot of the time. It seemed to take forever to get past the harbour entrance and fish farm, then the Skate of Marrister beacon (The name is so strange I had to mention it), but eventually we were through, having avoided a large fishing boat coming through the sound in the other direction.

The engine stayed on for the rest of the day, although we were definitely motor sailing, not just motoring. The swell did come back one we left the shelter of Whalsay, but much smaller than at the beginning of the day, and we had a pleasant sail all the way to our chosen marina.

Burra Voe at the Southeast corner of Yell Sound has a pier with pontoons behind it, the entrance is hard to see when approaching from the east, but our trusty chart plotter made sure we did not miss it. We had phoned the pier trust last night to check there would be space, and we were met at the entrance and directed to the visitor berth, which seemed the perfect size for us.

It was lovely to get out of the wind and waves, and we were made to feel very welcome. The weather was perfect for a walk after dinner, and within 15 minutes we were at the top of a cliff looking down at nesting fulmers. I really like Burra Voe!

 

Counterclockwise round Bressay

 Lerwick is not a restful place. After mooring on the Alfred dock pontoon we discovered that the wash from the Bressay Ferry made Robinetta lurch violently against her lines and fenders. The ferry runs at least once an hour between 7 am and midnight, and although some of the ferry’s arrivals and departures were gentler that others, all of them caused uncomfortable motion along the pontoon.

We had intended to stay 2 nights, but one was enough. After a walk north along the waterside to book our ferry tickets and do some shopping we headed back to Robinetta and got ready to go. We filled our water tanks, then headed for the fuel dock. This would be our first time filling Robinetta’s diesel tanks directly this season, so it will be interesting to find out exactly how much we use an hour from this point on.

Once Julian had paid for the fuel we headed south out of the harbour just before noon, crossing to the Bressay side of Bressay sound to raise sail. Once we turned the engine off we had a gentle very broad reach down to the south end of Bressay. There was very little swell, and no waves worth noticing, perfect sailing conditions, which continued as we hardened up to sail into Hope Wick, aiming to cross it and head to Feadda Ness, the south end of the Isle of Noss.

The north wind went very light, just enough to fill the sails, but we had steerage way, and our planned trip was only 13nm long, so we did not mind ghosting along at 1-2 knots. Julian put the fishing line out, we did not hook anything, but it was fun to plan how we would cook our non existent catch. We stayed patient until the wind strength rose enough to bring Robinetta up to 3 knots, but it also headed us towards Bressay, so we tacked before we got too close. The increase in wind speed saw a decrease in temperature, and before long we were bundled up in jumpers and sailing jackets. However we were also cruising along at 3.5-4 knots, which made a pleasant change.

Rounding Feadda Ness took a couple of tacks, and we needed another to get round Noss Head, but we did not mind. The bird life was spectacular, and we felt part of a great whirl of gannets coming and going from their fishing ground.

Once we cleared the Point of Pundsgeo on the north east end of Noss we were able to fine reach directly for Score Head on Bressay. We left the abundance of bird life behind and concentrated on sailing as we we were getting tired. Once we cleared the rocks at the end of Score Head we went onto a broad reach and aimed for our chosen anchorage of Aith Voe.

We arrived to find another yacht already there, taking up the perfect anchoring spot, but there was plenty of room to drop our own hook, and settle down for a peaceful evening, free of ferry wash or swell.

Lerwick

 We had two options for today. We could go straight to Lerwick, or we could go to Mousa and anchor there and see the broch and then go on to Lerwick.

We also had to factor in my 3pm class. We could do that at either place.

Alison preferred the first choice. We could go to the broch another day.

I wanted to make sure we got to Lerwick well before 3pm. It was 18 nm and we set off at 8am. 

The anchor came up easily and I left the chain on deck to dry. We motored north in zero wind and light fog. Visibility was at least a mile but we didn't get good views.

Broch of Mousa from |Mousa Sound

And that was it really until we got near Lerwick. Alison called on the phone and they said to call on VHF when we passed the light house. We did but they couldn't hear us very well. We must get the antenna checked.

We were told to go onto the visitor pontoon in the Albert dock. Our Swiss friend with the Ovni from Fairisle was there and helped us tie up. Swan was right in front of us, in her home spot against the wall and just about to take some primary school children out.

Within ½ hour, three different people had come to talk about Robinetta. It's a great place to bring an old wooden boat.

The bad news is that the wash from the Brassay ferry is really bad. Sometimes it's a bit bad. Sometimes it feels like it's going to tear the pontoon apart. And they are every hour until 1am.

Grutness Voe excursion

 

We rarely blog about days ashore, but this was a great day, where Robinetta’s anchorage was key to the whole experience.

When we came in to Grutness Voe yesterday the dominant feature in my head was the airport, and the fact that we had nearly run out of milk. To get the bus to the nearest shop we walked along the road, and I discovered that we would be getting the bus at the entrance to Jarlshof (Julian already knew.)

We also had a book of Shetland walks with one round Sumburgh Head, that I had already said I wanted to do. That was the day sorted.

I rowed us ashore and we spent a lovely morning at Jarlshof in bright sunshine but with a noticeable South Westerly wind blowing, at least force 4. Then we had a light lunch at the Sumburgh Hotel, before walking along the coastal path to the lighthouse, with its RSPB visitor centre. 

The scenery and seabirds were stunning, with fulmers, kittiwakes, shags, razor bills, and puffins beginning to come ashore to nest. There were bonxies and black back gulls patrolling above. 

Julian walked back to the bay along the high path, while I took the road to avoid stressing my knee. Then it was a row back to Robinetta for a relaxed evening. Perfect.

Vast rollers, and helpful tides

We are getting closer to spring tides again, so I took a good look at the tidal atlas. If we left Fair Isle at seven we would have a weak tide in the wrong direction for an hour, then a reasonable tide (1-2 knts) for the next six. The unknown question was if there would be overfalls off Sumburgh Head when we got there.

Leaving North Harbour, Fair Isle

The sea state off Fair Isle at 07:00 was a bit lumpy, but we managed to get the main sail up, although we never used it. However it was very helpful to steady us in the swell, and we needed it. There was no sign of the Shetlands until Fair Isle had faded into the haze behind us, so we were steering on the compass and chart plotter. We steered due north, while the tide carried up north east where we wanted to go.

The tide was dying as we got close to Sumburgh Head, but the light wind was straight behind us as it had been all morning. Luckily there were no overfalls, just huge swells that rolled under us. One moment we could see the whole of the cliff face, and the next only half of it. This went on for half an hour with Julian helming.

past Sumburgh Head

We turned towards the anchorage of Grutness Voe at 13:30, and were anchored in 4m by 14:00. It had been a stressfull trip, with the wind behind, and no chance to use the sails, but the anchorage is calm, although every now and then we can hear and see the the planes landing in the airport just behind us.

Fairisle

 Alison had set the alarm for 6 am but we were already drinking our tea by the time it went off.

It seemed like every boat in the harbour was going at the same time. There was very little to do before leaving and we slid out of Pierowall along with the work boats.

Out in the sound, I spotted a big fish farm on the route and went north of it nearer Papa Westray. There wasn't much wind but we got the sails up anyway. The sea was calm so we let George steer and had porridge.

Alison has definitely caught my cold.

There was a fair bit of tide pushing us towards North Ronaldsay. It's recommended to give it a wide berth in all weather so I compensated for the tide. It rotates rather than ebbing and flooding on this route so it's hard to know how to steer for best efficiency.

Suddenly, George jumped off the tiller pin. We realised the wind had come up and we could sail. It was a dead run but with the preventer fitted Robinetta was doing over 3.5 knots and it was nice. It lasted about 90 minutes and then the wind died again.

We never got the calm seas that George can cope with again. Sometimes it was a lovely rolling swell and sometimes it was a confused mess that took a lot of effort and concentration to steer in. 

Sometimes the tide sped us up, sometimes it slowed us down and sometimes it pushed left or right.

As we got within 10 miles of Fairisle, a wind shift put us on fine reach! We got the jib out but it wasn't quite enough to just sail. So we motor sailed and that was very pleasant.

A couple of miles out, we got the seabirds. Gannet and fulmar to start with, and then puffins and guillemot and skuas. 

Rock white with nesting birds

With the fine weather, getting into the north haven was easy. Mooring would have been tricky if the skipper of the big Ovni already there hadn't helped us raft against his boat. The visitor area is behind a huge buoy making the approach tricky.  Our companion said he was single handed and only got in with the help of the ferry skipper.