Lussa Bay to Port Ellen

A calm day, with little wind. The anchor came up clean and we set off under engine, which stayed on virtually all day. We put “George” to work, and he took us along the coast of Jura without incident, although he did loose power a couple of times when I trod on the lead.

The Paps of Jura

The weather was bright at first, and although it clouded over later it did not rain, and we managed 20 minutes of very slow sailing midmorning. Gigha appeared out of the mass of the Kintyre peninsula, and seeing it in the distance reminded me that it was supposed to be one of Queen Elizabeth II’s favourite stopping places when on holiday in the Royal Yacht. It was her funeral today and I spent a few minutes contemplating her life.

We saw quite a few seals as we come past Texa, and on the many rocks and reefs in the entrance to Port Ellen, but there have been no dolphins today. This was disappointing after 34 miles in 10 hours. Maybe they hated the engine noise as much as Julian does!

The Islay pontoons had plenty of space and knowing we had to pay for 10m (£25 a night) we did not bother to reeve the bowsprit, just tied up Worm beneath it. We decided on a shore day tomorrow, walking the 3 Distillery path, but today was a diet day, so we only a pot noodle each for dinner!

Across to Jura

 

Puilladobhrain

After a bowl of porridge for breakfast I hauled the anchor up, and we motored out of the pool at 09:00. We were not the first yacht to head out since one had left at 6am, but the others were still at anchor when Julian got the mainsail up just about where we had dropped it the evening before. The wind was quite light but seemed useable, so the engine went off at 09:27 as we headed for the Sound of Inch. This was where Robinetta had crossed her 1938 outbound track back in 2014, taking 77 years to complete her first circumnavigation. She had completed her second back in Plockton, where we crossed our own track from 2014, so this one only took 8 years… Julian and I have now been round 1½ times. Why do I feel that circumnavigations matter so much? I suspect in the end it is just fuelled by desire to claim an achievement.

Easedale

The wind came and went but by 10:05 it had definitely gone, so we motored through Easedale Sound. I had plotted a very precise course though this, but moored boats and empty moorings meant I ended up ignoring it, and trusting the depth gauge to keep Robinetta safe. It worked, but I was glad to be going through under engine.

The next sound we needed to traverse was the one we had planned the tides for. These can run at 7 knots at springs, and even at neaps, like now, we did not want them against us. We were one hour into the favourable tide, and Cuon Sound gave us no surprises. Maybe it was just that we have been through so many tidal channels since we were last here in 2014…

As we cleared the sound at the north end of Torsa the breeze became usable so we turned the engine off and went onto a very broad reach. Drizzle set in with the wind, but neither of us cared; being able to turn the engine off and sail made the trip worthwhile.

I had phoned Craobh Marina before we entered Cuon Sound to check that fuel would be available around lunchtime, and got a positive reply and instructions to call again when we were moored up on the fuel dock. All too soon we had to get the sails down and put the engine back on. But at least the rain stopped.

The stop itself was very efficient. We filled up with diesel and water, and took a short walk to the marina shop, and were motoring away inside 30 minutes. This was our first chance to fill Robinetta’s fuel tanks by hose since Arbroath and I was relieved to learn we only needed 6 litres in each tank although we also filled our cans. This should be enough fuel for the rest of the season, and certainly the rest of this week.

Julian got the sails up as soon as we were clear of the marina, and the engine was off within twenty minutes. Progress was slow, and Julian found an anchorage at the north end of Jura where we would spend the night. Then the wind died completely and the engine had to go back on.

Five minutes later the wind came back, from a much more useful direction and the engine went off again. The sky was overcast and visibility only “moderate”, but the wind was a lovely westerly force3 and we were making such good time that Julian decided to hunt out an anchorage further south. He found Lussa Bay and showed me pictures… The distance looked right so I agreed.

As we closed with the coast of Jura the wind increased and the tide under us helped Robinetta touch 6 knots occasionally. The sea was flat, but with the surface swirls and eddies that spoke of tide rips. We were only a couple of miles from Corryvreckan, and this area was marked as “tide rips” on the chart so we were not surprised so see them, but happy they were in our favour. Our speed dropped to a merely respectable 3½-4 knots once we were clear of the area.

Once we were within ½ nm of Jura’s coast the wind became flaky as the hills of the island slowed and sped up the wind, and by the time we got to Port Bàn Mhic-a-phi I decided I wanted a reef. Julian began to furl the jib away and the port jib sheet came off after having been fine all day! We got the reef in (3 rolls round the boom) and sailed on with the main and staysail, still making nearly 4 knots. The sea state remained smooth and we reached Lussa Bay at 18:25, only dropping the main and turning the engine on as we went head to wind entering the anchorage.

We anchored in 3m of water and I was able to see the anchor touching the sandy bottom.

Lussa Bay Anchorage

Tidal range her was less than a meter at neaps, so we just put out 15 meters of chain and were snug for the night. There were no other boats in the bay, and the scattered houses visible when we anchored had no lights showing when it got dark. And it got very dark. No moon or star light could make it through the cloud cover, and our anchor light was the only illumination outside the cabin.

We left Worm on a long line, and she stayed well astern. Gentle swells occasionally rocked Robinetta, but nothing to disturb us. We were tired after a full day on the water, and did not bother going ashore to explore.

Back on Board, Kerrera (Oban) to Puilladobhrain

Gallanach Ferry

We got the train to Oban, arriving at 11:20. We had already decided to get the Calmac Ferry not the marina one as it was cheaper and more frequent. Also the best Kerrera ferry for the train time was already full… The ferry from Gallanach ran every half hour, and was a mile and a half walk from the train station, then a mile from the disembarkation point to the marina. We stopped for lunch first, so arrived at Gallanach at ten to one. That was when we discovered that the ferry stopped running for lunch and the next one was not until 14:05.

A cool breeze and overcast sky meant that the wait was chilly, but dry. A queue of people had built up but we had been waiting longest so got on the first crossing. This was still too late to take Robinetta to the fuel pontoon which was only available until 14:00 on Saturdays. I wanted fuel since we had not been able to fill the tanks except via cans since Arbroath. My first task on arrival at the marina was to check the fuel level in the tanks (about half full in both), then tip in the final 8ltrs from the fuel cans we had filled in Mallaig. The forecast was for variable winds for the next 3 days, so fuel might be an issue. I am not sure how long it will take me to get over running a tank dry on the way to Grimsby!

Worm did not need to be emptied, and Robinetta was dry inside too, so it did not seem there had been much rain while we were away. We had been shown another Mouse Pram just finished built in the shed when we were left Kerrera, and now we saw it floating beside Worm. They looked quite different as the new dinghy was painted not varnished.

The wind felt strong and gusty in the marina, so Julian bent on the no 2 jib before we backed off the pontoon at 15:55. Twenty minutes later we were sailing down the Sound of Kerrera at 5 knots. The wind did not stay that helpful all afternoon, but we persisted with sailing, and did not put the engine back on until after we had dropped the main sail just outside the anchorage at Puilladobhrain. There were 7 yachts already at anchor, and another came in just after us. It started raining as we picked out the best place to drop the anchor.

Bridge over the Atlantic

Seven miles made for a short sail, but we had started late, and by the time we were anchored it was 19:00. We had thought about walking to the pub, but the rain discouraged us, and we spent a quiet night on board. We needed to do a little planning anyway.

We had thought about heading down the west side of Jura, and anchoring overnight in Loch Tarbert. (Yes, yet another Loch Tarbert!). My desire to get fuel as soon as possible meant a change of plan, and we decided to head for Croabh Marina, then carry on down the sound of Jura instead.

Loch Aline to Oban

Towards the entrance from the Anchorage, Loch Aline

After a very peaceful night at anchor we prepared to leave in a leisurely fashion. Julian wanted to haul the anchor up before breakfast, but it was still 08:30 before we were motoring slowly towards the entrance. There was a little wind coming from ahead, so we got the main sail up with the hopes that we could sail once we were in the Sound of Mull. The forecast was for an easterly 3-4, becoming variable 3 or less, Easterly was not a perfect direction, but perfectly usable with the tide in our favour.

Our hopes were fulfilled, and by 09:10 we were sailing at 3 knots with the engine off, aiming across the Sound. One of the reasons we had pushed on to Loch Aline yesterday was to have a short trip today. Robinetta felt perfectly balanced, and the scenery was superb. Julian went below to cook, and then passed up a plate of egg, bacon, haggis, black pudding, tomato, and potato scone. There can be few better places to eat such a feast, with the sailing so easy we could let go of the helm to use our cutlery.

Of course, there was that "becoming variable" in the forecast, and our speed dropped as the morning wore on. By 12:10 we were being carried purely on the tide, and since we were approaching Lismore it was time to get the engine on to give us steerage way. Under sail we had settled on passing between Lady Rock and Duart Point, but with the engine on the most direct course to Oban lay between the Lismore light and Lady Rock, so we changed course, and were made immediately aware of the strength of the tide.

In order to pass through the center of the channel we had to aim at the light house, not at all in the direction we were going. The ferry and fishing boat that came past during this maneuver did not seem worried by our apparently aiming at them, even when we suddenly sped up to 5 knots. They must be used to leisure craft doing odd things in the area!

The absence of wind made the tide rips little more than swirls in the water, and the potential overfalls were only visible when the ferry wake crossed them, but the chart is littered with warnings!

We were moored on a pontoon in Kerrera Marina by 14:00, right next to a pretty gaff yawl. Her owner came over when he spotted us, and Julian recognised him. We had last met Robert in 2015, at the East Loch Tarbert traditional boat festival. He had been sailing a 2 1/2 ton Hillyard then, but had rebuilt Sula, his current boat, from a wreck. His work had so impressed other wooden boat owners in the area that he was now working almost full time as a shipwright.

We tidied up Robinetta and Worm, before catching the 16:00 ferry from the marina to Oban. Our train was at 18:11, and we were home by 21:30. It seems quite odd to be able to sail in such a lovely area so close to home.

Loch Moidart to Loch Aline

We had a very peaceful night and a mostly dry one. The morning started bright but overcast but there was a little wind.

Over on the shore by the road, I counted three tents. It seems to be quite a popular wild camp site. I did a little exploring by Google Maps. The road runs along the River Sheil and about an hour’s walk along the road would get one to a bus stop. Of course, the campers were here with their vehicles. The castle is accessible across the strand at low water and there are 360 ° photographs on the Map.
 
We should have done some exploring ‘IRL’ – in real life! But last night it was wet and this morning neither of us seemed in the mood.
 
When I first looked, at high water, the water was completely still. Unfortunately, it was very polluted, a horrible brown sludgy film surrounded the boat. After a while it started moving, initially towards the shore by the road, and then more out past the castle. The currents here are complicated as the water can get out south of the castle, between the castle and Riska, between Riska and Shona or even between Shona and the mainland, depending on the state of the tide. It can also come in all those routes and additionally fresh water comes in down the River Sheil and the River Moidart.
 
I cooked breakfast and we hauled the anchor up and left. Hauling immediately after eating is not a good idea. It took both of us in turn to get the job done. Next time we will eat afterwards.
 
A light breeze was coming into the outer loch. It felt like it should be on the beam once we were on route to Ardnamurcan, so we got the main sail up.
 
The next loch along to the west, and the only one before Arnamurcan Point, is called Kentra. The name felt strangely familiar, but I couldn’t place it. On the chart there is a narrow entrance into a wide bay, but the bay dries entirely. The internet yielded the probable reason for the name’s familiarity. There is a lovely classic yacht with that name.
 
Kentra is an anglicisation of Ceann Traigh. Ceann is of course the word for head or end used all over the place, including in our own house-name Kenmuir. Online dictionaries suggest traigh can be used in several ways including beach and seabed. In modern Irish tra is the word for a beach. The word is probably the same as the Germanic equivalent strand. I don’t know if traigh is a Viking loan word into Gaelic, or an older similarity going back to Indo-european. Ceann Traigh is used in three ways here – the settlement of Kentra, Kentra Bay – the drying part of the inlet, and Loch Ceann Traigh – the navigable entrance.
 
The ebb had some power in it, adding a knot to our speed. Over on the land, the skies were clearing. It was going to be a nicer day than forecast.

 When we’ve passed before, we’ve been well out to sea. Coming from Moidart give a very different view and the lighthouse is initially seen through the rocks from the land side. We passed close in. More yachts than we have seen at sea all summer were either leaving or entering the Sound of Mull. We weren’t the only one with sails up, but everyone was motoring.
 
Heading into the Sound the wind started to pick up. It was right behind us. We let the main out and set the preventer and it was doing something but not enough to turn the engine off. Then it came in a little more strongly from the beam and I put the jib out and throttled back. We were sailing! We were managing 2 knots so off went the engine.
 
The wind came and went and veered and backed but we managed to keep the speed up in the 1½ to 2 knot range nearly all the way to Tobermory. It was warm and not quite sunny but there was plenty of blue sky. The views into Loch Sunart were especially fine. This was the kind of gentle pleasant sailing in glorious surroundings that one dreams of. We tried fishing but didn’t catch anything.
 
From the lighthouse north of Tobermory we motor-sailed. There was still wind, but we had around ½ knot of foul tide and we would not have got to Loch Aline before dark without the engine. We could have stopped earlier – in Tobermory or Loch Sunart but I wanted to be near Oban in the morning to be in a position to get the train home in the evening.
 
Alison telephoned Kerrera Marina and booked us in to leave Robinetta there.
 
Heading down the Sound of Mull, we saw a yacht coming up. I said – “there is a ‘not white’ boat”. Alison said “I think its wooden and it might be a gaffer”. She was right. A lovely gaff cutter called Alice of Penrhyn.

 
Half-way down Alison spotted a big oil tanker coming behind us. We were right in the middle of the channel, taking the best line towards Loch Aline. We headed over to the edge of the channel on the Morvern side to let it pass.
 
On the way to Loch Aline we were passed by a yacht called Hot Toddy, they took our picture and we exchanged waves. They went into Loch Aline too and went onto one of the pontoons.
 
We headed up the loch to the anchorage area. On the way I saw a gannet diving so we put out the fishing line again and caught two fine fish. That was supper sorted!

 
There were many boats on moorings and at the pontoon but only one other in the anchorage area and we anchored without problems. I cleaned the fish and made a fine supper of sauteed potatoes with garlic and pan-fried fish with onions and tomatoes (and garlic). I turned the pan juices into a little sauce with wine and flour. Delicious! Thanks are due to the crew of Suzelle, who gave us the bottle of wine back in Gairloch.

Mallaig to Loch Moidart

We arrived late to Robinetta last night. The train should have got into Mallaig at 23:39, but was delayed so did not get there until 00:05. It was not actually raining, but even in August nights are chilly around Midnight, and the air was damp. Multicoloured lights projected onto the cliffs behind the marina offered a patch of cheer, and Robinetta’s LED cabin lights are not bright enough to show how grey the white cabin paint looked as we got the sleeping bags out and fell into bed.

We woke earlier than expected, with bright sunlight flooding through the port holes in a welcome change to the forecast grey. We took our time getting up, but it was just after 8 when we headed for the shore heads, stopping to pay our marina fees on the way. We were told that the harbour chandlers did not open on a Saturday, so we would have to get our fuel in cans from the garage, which did not open until 10:00. Luckily the Co-Op opened well before then, so we were able to get provisions before heading back to the boat for the fuel cans.

After a chat with our pontoon neighbours in Tzatziki we headed back ashore to pick up pastries and coffee from the Bake House for breakfast. We also bought fresh bread from there before getting our 17 litres of fuel from the filling station. Once that was in the fuel tanks we got Robinetta ready to go, only just remembering to fit our new radio before turning the engine on.

Getting the electrics right for the radio took a while, and they were not right when we backed off the pontoon to leave Mallaig at 11:40. We either had the radio or the chart plotter… by 13:00 normal service had resumed. The new Standard Horizon radio has its own GPS so the extra electronics board Julian fitted in 2017 has finally been removed. Not that I expect it to stay gone. The new power connections need refining, and our forward facing depth gauge can not work without that board. The quick fix depth gauge I screwed at the stern has done us for several years now, and we may never go back to the NASA system despite its “new” transducer.

Leaving Mallaig

We were making for the head of Loch Moidart which is only 18nm from Mallaig so we were not in a hurry. As soon as there was a hint of wind Julian got the main sail up. There was barely enough of a breeze to give us steerage way, but we pretended there was and turned off the engine while we ate lunch. After that clouds began to cover the blue and it seemed like a good time to put our oily trousers on. It began to rain, and Julian went below for a nap while I helmed for the next hour.

No wind appeared with the rain, so when Julian came back on deck we decided to get the main sail down before we began picking our way through the rocks and sand bars off Loch Moidart. The shear size of Eilean Shona between the North entrance and the South entrance into Loch Moidart makes it seem like the two are not connected, and from our navigational standpoint they are not. We were aiming for the south of Eilean Shona and the Clyde Cruising Club pilot describes this as one of the most complicated entrances in the area. Having a chart plotter in the cockpit makes pilotage much easier that having to constantly identify islands to take bearing on. The CCC did have some essential advice and a chartlet that let us identify Eilean Raonuill and make sense of the chart plotter display. There were seals hauled out on Roanuill, but the tide was pushing us past the island with its leaning identification pole and we took no photos. After picking our way past other smaller rocky islands we were in the loch and pilotage meant avoiding a sandy spit, which had useful islet called Sgier na Claidheamh acting like marker buoy for its south end before he headed north again toward our chosen anchorage near Riska Island.

As we approached Riska we saw 3 Canadian style canoes, and certainly felt like a worthwhile place to explore that way. Riska is an almost perfectly circular island, totally overgrown by trees, and it looked as though no one had set foot there for years, with fallen trees in the gullies and no obviously landing places. We were at the top of the tide, and there might well have been sandy beaches to land on at low water, since we had to cross a bar to the north of the island which mostly dried at low water springs.

Castle Tioram on the right, Riska on the left

We reached the anchorage at 18:00, and I laid out 33m of chain as we were in 11m of water. It was deeper than we prefer, but the best spot to avoid possible cables on the sea floor. It began to drizzle as I dropped the anchor, and it set in for the evening, so rather than rowing across to look at Castle Tioram we retreated into the cabin for the evening.

Castle Tioram from the anchorage

Christine Thain Award

 At the end of June Julian and I got an email from Richard, the organizer of the Portsoy Festival. It contained the following text

"Christine Thain Award

"As you may remember, at each festival an award is made in memory of a great supporter of the festival, Christine Thain. The award is for; just being the best boat at the festival in the eyes of the Maritime Co-Ordinator, i.e. me.

"This is not for the cleanest, oldest, shiniest, etc. etc boat, its purely for the boat that I thought was just a wee bit more special than all the others, for the story behind it, and its crew.

"You may not have noticed me, but I did go around and look at all the boats, and where possible chatted with the owners, albeit a bit more briefly than I’d hoped (that was going to be my job for Sunday).

"This year’s winner is the boat Robinetta. She’s a really pretty boat, and one that sails regularly and is very well loved and used. (This coming from someone who drives a 30 year old car every day, which is also well loved and very used). The crew write about the boat and their adventures and really promote the beauty and experiences of life with a  boat that has seen many a tide and port through its life.  I’ll be in touch with the owners to ship the award to them."

 We  received the award in the post today, and were totally bowled over. 

Thank you very much, Portsoy. We really enjoyed our time there and this clock makes a lovely memento.