Calm to horrid, and back again

We spent a comfortable and calm night anchored at Salen Bay, although a slight swell began to roll in about 5 a.m. The morning was dry, but not especially warm, and Julian had his Gaelic lesson in the cabin as the wind was a bit too brisk to have it in the cockpit.

We had decided to head straight for Kerrera; after 3 days at anchor I wanted a shower, and we needed to get laundry done. The Met office forecast the wind to be gusting up to force 7 in the morning, and we would be heading straight into it, so we had no plans to sail.

We got the engine on and the anchor up as soon as the lesson ended at 10:30, and soon discovered how well sheltered we had been. The sea state once we were heading between Dearg Sgeir and Mull was nasty, but we had the tide with us, and made it though on engine and nearly centred staysail without being stopped by the waves. Sometimes the wind gusts were so strong that Robinetta’s bow was pushed to port, and bringing her back on course was difficult despite the engine being on full revs.

Provident tacked into the bay ahead of us, then tacked again and came past us inside Dearg Sgeir. She was reefed, but moving fast.

We stayed under engine, keeping to the Mull side of the sound. A Bermudan rigged yacht was sailing down the sound with us, tacking just behind us on each leg. We could not have sailed as close to the wind, but our motoring approach let us keep slightly ahead with her course made good.

The lumpy sea kept our speed down to around 3 knots, but Fishnish Bay gave use enough shelter for the waves to disappear, and the swell was not a problem. We were making 4 knots then, which was lovely. Julian made sandwiches for lunch and the trip began to feel pleasant.

That changed after we passed Rubha Leth Thorcaill and lost all shelter. The waves were back, the wind seemed to strengthen, and we passed though a large lump of seaweed that we were afraid would wrap itself round the prop. Once we checked the prop was clear we realised that the drop in speed was due to the waves. Their wavelength had shortened, and turned them into Robinetta stoppers.

Once Julian took the helm he got the jib out, and we started sailing on jib and staysail to see if that would help our speed. Our first tack, towards Ardtornish Point was exhilarating, although we were soon overhauled by the Bermudan yacht that had been keeping us company. When we tacked back towards Mull on the non making tack our course made good did not increase, and we soon lost sight of the other yacht.

The next hour and a half saw us lucky to make 1½ knots, and not all of that was course made good. Glas Eileanan never seemed to get any closer, and it began to spit with rain. I put my oily trousers on before I took my turn on the helm, but may as well not have bothered. The rain became torrential, and went straight through them, soaking the trousers beneath and even allowing runnels of water into my sea boots. Visibility went down to less than 50m, and we got our lifejackets on. The rain did damp the waves a little, and the wind began to decrease. Our speed crept up to 3 knots, and it looked as though we would get to the south end of Lismore before the tide turned. Julian suggested a mug of soup, which was heavenly.

The visibility began to get better, and I could see Duart Castle, and one of the smaller Mull ferries then the rain became drizzle, then stopped. By the time the ferry passed us on its way back we were past Lismore, and the sky was clearing, and there was even a hint of sun over Oban. The wind was very light now, and Julian suggested we give George a go on the helm. Once one of the big CalMac ferries, with horrible wash had passed us I agreed to give him a go, and handed over the steering.

Not long after that Robinetta was rolling gently towards Oban in bright sunshine. Julian decided he wanted to try sailing, and with the main up and the engine off we sailed for an hour until the wind died totally. That hour made up for the horrid conditions of the previous 6 hours of the trip. We stripped off our sodden oilies and spread them out to dry, had a cup of tea, and generally relaxed. The sky to the north was still dark grey, but that just made the rainbow we could see over Dunstaffinage brighter.

We were moored on a pontoon at Kerrera Marina by 18:15 after a very varied day of sailing. It had rained so much that Worm’s duck boards were afloat, but the day ended in bright sunshine.

We will be staying at Kerrera until at least Sunday, as we are hosting a rally for the OGA. More on that in due course.