We both wanted to see the Shiants. They have been on our radar since we read Adam Nicolson's book 'Sea Room'. Alison thought we would want to reef more when clear of Scalpay but the wind was steady and the sea was a nice gentle roll from the stern quarter. We had a glorious very broad reach all the way to the Shaints, making 5½ knots on reefed main.
The wind did shift a little. Initially I set a course for the recommended entry from the south. There are overfalls marked but they are a good way south of the islands. Then the wind backed and it looked easier to make for the north end. The tide runs up to 3 knots through the narrows but it is the standard way in from Stornoway. Then the wind veered again and we ended up at the south end. The stack heading out west was stunning and the terns, cormorants, fulmars, guillemots and puffins were out in force. Both sky and sea were thick with birds. As we rounded Eilean an Tighe the sea did get up. The overfalls do get close after all. The wind was stronger than we had hoped too. The cliff is an incredible display of columnar basalt, painted with lichen, and decorated with nesting birds.
I was afraid the wind would blow straight across the isthmus where the normal anchorage is and I was proved right. I hoped the alternative northern anchorage would be calmer but there was swell in the whole bay and the wind seemed to be blowing down the steep slope of Eilean Garbh. We knew it did in strong winds but I had hoped for calm weather.
We went head to wind, turned the engine on and got the main down.
The wind did shift a little. Initially I set a course for the recommended entry from the south. There are overfalls marked but they are a good way south of the islands. Then the wind backed and it looked easier to make for the north end. The tide runs up to 3 knots through the narrows but it is the standard way in from Stornoway. Then the wind veered again and we ended up at the south end. The stack heading out west was stunning and the terns, cormorants, fulmars, guillemots and puffins were out in force. Both sky and sea were thick with birds. As we rounded Eilean an Tighe the sea did get up. The overfalls do get close after all. The wind was stronger than we had hoped too. The cliff is an incredible display of columnar basalt, painted with lichen, and decorated with nesting birds.
I was afraid the wind would blow straight across the isthmus where the normal anchorage is and I was proved right. I hoped the alternative northern anchorage would be calmer but there was swell in the whole bay and the wind seemed to be blowing down the steep slope of Eilean Garbh. We knew it did in strong winds but I had hoped for calm weather.
We went head to wind, turned the engine on and got the main down.
Once Robinetta was under easy control we explored the bay between Eilean an Tighe, and Garbh Eilean. Staying overnight had always been dependant on how the anchorage felt, and we both decided that we would rather not risk it. It felt a shame to leave the birds, but we got the main back up and set off towards the mainland through the north entrance.
Alison was tired - she had helmed all the way from Tarbert and didn't want to stop but it was time, so she handed the helm over to me.
Alison was tired - she had helmed all the way from Tarbert and didn't want to stop but it was time, so she handed the helm over to me.
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