Port Ellen to Rathlin

We left the pontoon at Port Ellen at 06:45, trying to make the most of the wind and tide. We needed to reach Rathlin about high water Belfast to avoid the overfalls off Bull Rock, and the tide would be running South East, with a South East wind. That actually meant that rather than steering 180º for Rathlin we should head on a compass course on 210º, which would let us sail. That was the theory, and it did work in practice, at least as long as there was wind.

When we left Port Ellen we got the sails up before clearing the reefs that protect the entrance. Almost as soon as we were clear of Ceann nan Sgeirean we went onto our heading of 210º, only varying slightly to clear Otter Gander rock. The main sail was not really drawing, and the sea was flat, so the tiller pilot went on duty.

By 08:20 we had Rubha Nan Leacan, the South western point of Islay, behind us, the jib was set, and we were doing 4.7 knots. Julian realised we were actually sailing rather well, and throttled back the engine, then set it to idle. Robinetta's speed did not drop, so the engine went off, and we had a lovely hour of sailing before the wind died.

When the wind died the swell became noticeable, and just centring the main did not stop it flogging. We lashed the boom to the back stay, then eventually lowered the sail after an hour when it became clear that the wind was not coming back.

The tiller pilot did its best to keep us on track, but by 11:30 we were in an area where the tide kept varying. There were areas of flat water, that looked like upwellings, and places were the sea looked confused, with no wave pattern, but small sharp points instead. The tiller pilot, with its simplistic knowledge of where was the bow was pointing, needed constant adjustment. Hand steering felt much simpler, so I took over.

The overfalls off Bull Point are only there around 2 hours before high water, and we had planned to avoid them, by arriving an hour later than that. However we could see an area where the confused sea's amplitude approached that of overfalls as we approached Bull Point. Julian was helming, and he decided that heading out into calmer waters felt safer than trying to slip close inshore with the way the tide was running.

I saw a small fin in the water, and thought “harbour porpoise”, then I caught another glimpse, of a larger fin, and decided it was a dolphin of some sort. It seemed to be heading away from Bull Point, just where we wanted to go. A third glimpse of fin was the last I saw of it. We did not have to go far off the direct course, the overfalls extended 3 cables, rather than three miles, and then we turned towards Church Bay.

 

Cooraghy Bay

Bull Rock is very photogenic, but the poor visibility meant no photograph could do it justice. The same went for the chalk cliffs and caves in Cooraghy Bay, but actually being there was spectacular. We saw Guillemots, razorbills, and puffins, plus a variety of gulls, and a seal.

Julian had been afraid that the tide would be against us in Church Bay, but if it was it was so weak that we did not notice. We were safely moored up on a pontoon in the harbour by 13:30, but then moved onto a different one at the request of the harbour master. Julian said he felt quite out of practice at mooring alongside a pontoon rather than in a finger berth, so I happily let him helm for both!

Maintenance and trying to sail

We woke to a very foggy morning. Worse than we had at Gigha and perhaps as bad as at Baltimore last year. I had work to do on Robinetta before we did anything else so I didn’t mind too much.

Yesterday we lifted the cockpit floor and saw a noticeable trickle of water coming from the anti-siphon box. I disconnected the hoses from each end and brought it up. It is basically a U-bend  with a large water reservoir. It is made of high temperature tolerant plastic. I filled it with water from the pontoon hose and it didn’t show any sign of leaking so I put everything back together, adding an extra hose clamp where I could.

While disconnecting things I had noticed that the raw water overflow was lying flat over the U-bend box. It is supposed to be up high so it only spills water into the bilges when there is too much pressure. One of the hose clips holding it onto the engine had a very rusty screw. Nigel Calder mentions that hose clips are often made of good quality stainless steel and then fitted with poor grade stainless screws. This was the perfect example. I replaced the hose clip and moved the top of the unit into the space above the engine. We should get a little less water in the bilges now.

The other problem we had yesterday and also a few days earlier was the VHF radio going haywire. It just kept cycling channels as though someone was pressing the arrow keys all the time. I had disconnected the data link from the chart plotter in case it was noisy but it didn’t make any difference. Then I discovered I had left the wiring diagram at home and we didn’t have the radio handbook with us.

Today I downloaded the handbook and worked out that the green & yellow wires were the data input ones which let me work out which wires from the junction box were the right ones. After some experimentation I got it all hooked up again with time and position being sent from the chart plotter to the radio. Of course the radio channel cycling problem had fixed itself.

By now the fog had started to clear. I thought it would be nice to go for a sail and suggested a sail to the anchorage at the Ardbeg distillery. We could go ashore in Worm for either a whisky tasting or tea and cake. We all wanted some sailing as we seem to have been either stuck in port or motoring since Portpatrick.

Robinetta went out first and we got the sails up in the outer harbour and Molly Cobbler caught up with us as we got near the channel marker at the entrance to the bay. It was quite windy and the sea was really bouncy. Robinetta was OK but Molly Cobbler was bucking like a bronco. Mary turned back. Alison was helming and struggling so I took over and got outside the bay where it was calmer. We headed east towards the distilleries. The wind was strong and it was a lovely sail.

Molly Cobbler braving the swell

It soon became clear that there was a strong tide against us and pushing us towards rocks. We tacked out to get some sea room and found ourselves going back along our track. The tide was even stronger than we thought. We were not going to be at Lagavulin or Ardbeg in time for a tasting but it was still nice to be sailing.

Then the wind died completely. The swell made the rigging clatter like mad. Paradise had turned into Purgatory in an instant.

Reluctantly we turned back. The wind came back and then died again. We got back into the marina and tied up in a different berth (the marina was filling up). Not the best sail but at least we tried. This flaky wind is starting to get to me.

Gigha to Islay in the fog

Preparing Naiad to sail

We woke to a damp, foggy, and windless morning. I watched as Neil prepared Naiad to head north. He came off his mooring at 08:00, to head for Loch Feochan where he keeps her. They disappeared into the fog before even clearing the bay.

Julian picked up the creel he had laid last night. The three crabs inside were too small to eat, so he let them go, then decided to mend the creel which had been damaged when catching a large dogfish last summer. Meanwhile I put on full oilskins before getting in Worm to row ashore for milk.

After a late breakfast of porridge with full cream Gigha milk we decided to head for Islay despite the fog. Mary stayed put until later in the day when she hoped the visibility would be better.

Julian raised the reaching sail, and we sailed off the buoy, (with the engine on in case). Unfortunately I needed the engine in gear to keep steerage way almost immediately. A single handed yachtsman came off his mooring ahead of me and the ferry was ready to leave. I went to full revs to clear the ferry's path while Julian went forward to tack the reaching sail. We tried using it as we headed north, close in to the shore, but did not manage to make it fly again.

The North East coast of Gigha is a wonderful place and was atmospheric in the fog. We stayed inside the outermost skerries, rounding the north end in Gigha inside An Dubh-Sgeir. We then edged into West Tarbert Bay, hoping for a back eddy to help against the tide, which was now against us. No eddy appeared, so we headed along the bay at just under 3 knots. The bay itself was well worth the visit, with a lovely sandy beach at one point, and the mist drifting through some atmospheric rocks.

We then put the tiller pilot to work, laying in a course of 248ºT to take us in a straight line across the foggy Sound to Port Ellen, Islay. There was nothing to aim at, and over 15nm to go.

Gigha faded slowly into the greyness, while Jura and Islay were only occasionally visible. Julian tried flying the reaching sail again, but it moved us forward at less than a knot, so he took it down again. When he came back into the cockpit to sit down he managed to tear the “back” that we use to make the seats comfortable, which meant another half an hour with needle and thread.

We cleaned the cockpit sole and took it up to have a look at the bilges. Robinetta has been pumping more than expected given the flat seas and no stress on the garboards from the mast. The engine muffler box seemed to be leaking, so we will need to have a look at that.

A slight wind came up at about 15:30 so we tried flying the jib, which filled nicely. When we saw a mixed flock of sea birds, gannets and guillemots together, I suggested that we might as well try fishing. Julian got out the mackerel line while I turned the engine off. Blessed peace! We were going at less than a knot, a perfect speed for fishing, and all of a sudden blue sky appeared overhead. Bliss.

Julian ran out the whole line, but unfortunately the end came undone, and the whole lot went overboard. Hopefully the heavy sinker on the end took it straight down to the bottom and kept it there, so it will not damage any wildlife. We headed slowly towards Islay for 15 more minutes, listening to the sea birds calling all around us and followed by an inquisitive guillemot, but then the sun disappeared and the wind faded to nothing. George started wondering which direction to steer us, so it was back on with the engine, and up to 3.5 knots again.

The fog lifted enough for us to see Islay properly as we approached to within 2 miles of the coast. The entrance to Port Ellen is totally obscured by a set off reefs, and I was very glad of the chart plotter to help us navigate in. There was quite a strong current at the entrance to the bay, and however much I told George to steer round nothing happened. Because of that I took the helm.

Julian went forward to stow the reaching sail and bring down the jib. Suddenly the radio started beeping oddly. I snuck down for a look, and it seemed to be changing channels at random, and would not stay on 16, where it should. When I came up again Robinetta had turned herself though 180º and was heading out of the bay again. Julian called back to the cockpit to ask what was going on, and when I told him asked if I had power cycled the radio. NO. He did that and the problem seemed to clear, then 10 minutes later it was doing it again.

Gig practice at Port Ellen

We were glad to get into Port Ellen and tie up on a pontoon at 18:00. With the engine to look at, and the radio to fix we will probably stay put tomorrow. Found the showers with some difficulty, cooked dinner on board for the first time in a while. A walk round the bay along the village street, followed by a dram of local whisky in the pub completed a full day.

Afternoon and evening on Gigha

Had a walk on Gigha after picking up Mary from Molly Cobbler on Worm. Julian and I took our towels with us, hoping for a shower at the Boat House, but unfortunately the building had been damaged by fire over the winter. The fire started in the shower annex and gutted it, but they managed to stop it getting to the dinning room and kitchen. They are rebuilding the showers, but it will be at least a month before they re-open.

Gigha smelt wonderful, fresh air and flowers, with tuneful bird song everywhere. Our walk took us past the art gallery and the hotel, then up a side road towards the ruined church and Ogham Stone. It began to rain gently as we passed the church's graveyard. Nothing remains of the church building except some low stone walls and an arch that looked as though it had been moved to a different wall. The graveyard was still in use, and there was a sign to commonwealth war graves.

Gigha's Ogham stone

We found our way to the Ogham stone, but only the wooden rail round it made it clear it was anything special. Lichen covered the Ogham lines almost completely. The rain got heavier as we headed back down hill towards the road. Julian did not have a coat with him, so we headed back to Robinetta. Worm's duck-board kept our feet dry, but her thwarts were wet and we all got rather damp on the way back to the boats.

3 Old Gaffers moored at Gigha

 An hour later I was back out in the persistent drizzle, rowing Worm to get Mary, and Neil from Naiad. They came aboard Robinetta for a drink then we all headed ashore to the Boat House Restaurant for a delicious dinner. Then it was another “taxi” trip in Worm to return everyone to their respective boats. The wind had got up, making the journey “out” (laden) easy, while not being too strong to row against coming back to the pontoon. However there was a general wish that the wind increase had happened earlier in the day so we could have sailed more.

Campbeltown to Gigha

Getting to Gigha means getting the tides right round the Mull of Kintyre, so we were off the pontoon, in company with Molly Cobbler, by 06:30. (We would have had a much later start from Sanday). Once Molly was clear of us on the pontoon we moved Worm astern from her overnight berth, and motored off into a flat sea.

We got the main and staysail up in the loch, but neither were drawing and the wind stayed light until we were round Davaar Island.

The Northern Light House Board ship, Pharos, was anchored off the causeway to Davaar, and we also saw a surfaced submarine in the distance, heading up the Clyde. Gannets, cormorants and guillemots were the most obvious birds, flying in formations of 3 to 20 birds, wheeling round as they searched for fish.

An hour after leaving Campbeltown we were able to turn the engine off and sail. Unfortunately our course soon changed and the wind came on the nose, but it also went light, and did not cause any problems, we just furled the jib, and turned the engine back on. The sail coincided with our breakfast porridge, and lasted a mere half hour, but at least we sailed a little!

Molly off the shore

We had been advised (that invaluable local knowledge) that with the forecast light winds it would be safe to hug the coast, and go inside the overfalls off the Mull of Kintyre, this saving the suggested 3nm offing for the headland. Unlike at Fair Head the shore is not “clean”. There are small shallow patches and reefs to avoid at the foot of the cliffs. With the aid of our chart plotter, and depth gauge to back it up we picked our course round, inside the waves topped with white horses that we could see on our port side.

The Mull

The most obvious reef was really quite small on the chart, and easily visible on the water. Just beyond it, in what was safe water according to the chart, was a very similar looking patch of disturbed water. It could have been more rocks, but was actually just some overfalls in miniature marking a back eddy, at most six inches high and no problem to go through. I kept a careful eye on the depth gauge, just in case, and there was 20m below the keel. A seal popped its head up for a look at us, making me afraid it was an uncharted rock, but only for a moment.

Fine by us, not so nice over there

The tide had been carrying us at nearly 7 knots, and the back eddy took us down to 3½ for about 10 minutes before we picked up the main tide again, but it was an interesting trip round the Mull. 

Close-up of the Mull

We could now see Fair Head, Rathlin, and Islay spread before us.

A large ketch had been following us round close in, but did not like the look of the water we had just been through. Rather than staying on the same track as us they swung wide, through the overfalls, which made them plunge in a very uncomfortable way.

Bright sunshine gave way to grey skies, and the sea was glassy smooth as we headed north towards Gigha. Islay began to disappear into the low cloud and then we had a few drops of rain when we were about 6nm short of our destination. Once it stopped we decided we may as well get the main sail down. It was doing nothing, and only our forward motion put any wind in it.

Approaching Gigha we began to realise how many little islands surround it. We went close to Cara, and Gigalum, then round the cardinal buoy and into Ardminish Bay to pick up a visitor mooring. We were safely tied up to it by 14:55 after a calm trip from Campbeltown. More sailing would have been better!

When in doubt

We had hoped to leave Campbeltown this afternoon, to anchor at Sanda Island, but got distracted. Peter who had been at the Campbeltown rally in Cuan Mist, set off back to Bangor at lunchtime. A couple of hours later Alison heard the lifeboat start up, and turned on the radio to listen to what was going on. It turned out that Cuan Mist had suffered from engine failure, and after sailing back to Campbeltown ended up being towed in to the dock by the RNLI. By the time Cuan Mist was safely tied up it had started to rain, and Sanda no longer felt attractive, so we decided to stay at Campbeltown another night.
 

Cuan Mist and the Campbeltown Lifeboat

What we might do

These are our our plans for the season. Of course we might end up doing different things if the weather gets in the way.

11-Apr	15-Apr	Holyhead to Deganwy via Caernarfon
13-May	19-May	Liverpool to Campbeltown
19-May	20-May	Campbeltown Classics
21-May	28-May	Campbeltown to Bangor via Gigha and Islay
21-Jun		Bangor to Portaferry
22-Jun	25-Jun	Portaferry Sails and Sounds
25-Jun		Portaferry to Ardglass
05-Jul	06-Jul	Ardglass to Dun Laoghaire
07-Jul	09-Jul	Dun Laoghaire Regatta
02-Aug	03-Aug	Dun Laoghaire to Peel
04-Aug	06-Aug	Peel Traditional Boat Festival
07-Aug	13-Aug	Peel towards Bristol

We don't have any real idea of what we will do after Peel except that we should be heading south. We will probably go down the west coast of Wales.