Heart of Neolithic Orkney

is the name given to the World Heritage site including the vast array of neolithic sites including Skara Brae, The Ring of Brodgar and Maeshowe.

We hired bikes today to see as much as we could. It worked out perfectly. We cycled off towards Maeshowe having failed to contact them by phone to book. We stopped to look at the Unstan chambered cairn which gave Alison a chance to catch her breath, and see an “ordinary” chambered tomb before Maeshowe. It was well worth seeing in its own right though. Much lighter inside than it would have been when built, due to having been capped with a concrete arch with skylights set in.That was just as well since neither of us had brought a torch..I called Maeshowe again and this time I got through. They said they were full until 14:00 until I mentioned we were on bikes and then they said we could go on the first tour! It seems they have car park problems and we had picked the perfect transport mode.

The tour was great. The guide was really passionate and funny and knew his stuff. They told us we would be just in time for the 1pm free ranger tour of the Ring of Brodgar and we went off to that, stopping at the Stones of Stennis on the way. In between Stennis and the ring is the recently discovered Ness of Brodgar site but it is closed over until next month when the annual dig starts.

At the Ring of Brodgar car park we asked where we should have our picnic and ended up sitting by the lake. A fisherman got bored and came to chat, which used up all the time before the tour.

Again, the tour was excellent. Elaine Clarke, one of two World Heritage Site 'Rangers' does a splendid job of explaining what is known and what is unknown about the site. She is a genuine star.

On from the ring it was a longer and more hilly cycle to Skara Brae. Elaine had told us we would get there just as the last coach left, ideal! Tired and hot, we stopped for a cup of tea before visiting the exhibition, the reconstructed house and the site itself. We chatted with one of the wardens as we looked out into the bay. He said some people did anchor in the bay to visit. That would be nice.

We also went round the house, which was typical of an Edwardian gentleman's abode, with some additional interesting exhibits.

Then it was time to head home. I wanted to swing past the brewery, which in retrospect was a mistake. We had a long cycle up a shallow, tiring hill and the brewery was closed for the day when we got there. We had both had enough by the time we drifted back into Stromness. Too tired to go to the new quay to look at the tall ship which had come in.

We were in good time for our dinner booking at Hamnavoe. It was a disappointing, but not terrible meal.