Tuesday, 19 July 2022

Kylescu to Lochinver

The alarm went off at 5:30 and despite the broken night we managed to get going. Getting the anchor up was easier than I expected and we were off before 6am.

It was dry and bright with some blue sky. A hopeful sign. Loch Beag was herself, wind down the thrust fault at the head of the loch and 180 degrees round through the narrows into Loch Glencoul.
Approaching the bridge at Kylescu


We left all the sails down until we were through the bridge, which we did at bang on 7am, and slack water. Once in Loch a' Chairn Bhain I was about to start cooking breakfast when we got a nice breeze. So up went the sails. The weather now was wonderful, warm and sunny with fluffy clouds.

We wanted to eat together so I pressed George into service. The official metal mount still hasn't turned up but I had an idea for a new alternative. I got the anvil out and the hole in the top fitted George's pin nicely. I tied the anvil in-place with a sail tie and it worked really well.

So I went and cooked bacon and Stornoway black pudding and egg. Lovely.

The views of Quiniag from the loch are spectacular.

We motor-sailed to the Stoer headland and hoped for slack water but the northerly stream was already running. We must have misread the pilot. Reading it again it agreed with reality! It had only just started in the last 15 minutes so it comes up to speed fast. The Old Man of Stoer makes a great day mark.
Old Man of Stoer



We set George to point a bit south and got due west over the ground. So we let that guide us and when Robinetta started turning left we knew we were far enough out for the stream to weaken. We also used the SOG to help and added to the turn every time we reached 3 knots. It worked well.

As we worked out way down the coast the westerly wind came up and the engine went off and we had a grand gentle sail. 

Blue skies, wonderful scenery, calm seas and a sailing breeze. It doesn't get better.

Just past the Stoer lighthouse was a parking place with lots of campervans. I wonder if any took our picture?

A yacht passed under sail heading north. At least we weren't the only ones enjoying the breeze.


I brought her in towards the coast to try to make out the broch at Clachtoll but we weren't very close and could not make anything out.

A man and a boy came out to see us on a jet ski - very polite and without throwing up any wash!

Then we passed Achmelvish beach. Alison stayed at the youth hostel there on a geology field trip when we were courting. Over 40 years ago!
 
Off to sea we saw seals and then something we've been missing. Our first decent sighting of dolphins. Not really close but we did see one jump out of the water in a fine curve.

And through the islets into Lochinver. Civilization! Lots of recreational and fishing boats going out and coming in. We picked up a pontoon and went to find the Harbour Master.

We found the chandlers first. Excellently provisioned. We bought some fenders to replace one we lost on the East Coast and a couple for Worm as we forgot to pack hers. I also bought some hooks for the fishing line. A pack for cod, one for mackerel and a pack with silvery lures I thought might work for bass. The bass we caught in Brittany had sand eels in their mouths so I thought the glint of silver might work.

The harbour master said visiting yachts normally use the east finger so we moved.

The pilots still mention Tuesday as early closing here. It's not a thing. The chandlers, butchers and Spar Larder were all open. It's possible the gift shop might close early but we didn't check.

A fantastic day.

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