Fog and slow progress, Morlaix to Treguier

One of the reasons for braving the fog to go to Morlaix on Friday was the highly recommended Saturday market. We had intended to have a good look around then lock out on the second lock opening at high water.

Morlaix lock at low water

The weather changed our minds. It was grey, and cool, and looked as though there would be more fog down river. We decided to have a good look round the market, then wander down the river to see it at low water, and just relax. Julian decided to have a digital detox day, and did not look at his phone, or turn on his computer all day.

Next morning there was bright sun at Morlaix, and we felt ready to leave. The first lock out was not until 10:58, but that was still earlier than we would have left yesterday, so not a problem. It gave us a chance to properly route plan our trip to Treguier, including all the windings of the river. Even if we made good speed all the way it would be dark before we got there. The pilot book said it was well marked with lighted buoys and available at all states of the tide, so we knew there should not be a problem. We set off down the river in the company of another 3 yachts, carefully following our in bound track as there was less water now than then.

Patchy fog

We reached the river bend where we had left the fog behind two days before, and it was there again. Just as thick and clammy. This was NOT what we had wanted! Luckily we had our in bound track, and route planned out. Other boats were the problem! White boats and white fog are not a good combination.

The fog was patchy once we were in the Bay of Morlaix, then finally gone in the Bay of Lannion. Looking across at Roscoff showed it still shrouded in fog, but every now and then the Ile de Batz was clear.

We had the tide against us, and the wind from dead ahead. From a force 2 it rose to a force 5, and we changed down to the no 2 jib, and 2 reefs in the main. Even so we were motor sailing to try to sail closer to the wind. There was no point just using the engine to power though as heading directly into the waves slowed us hugely. At one time our time of arrival went to 03:15 rather than the midnight we had hoped. This did give us plenty of time to admire our surroundings!

Cote de Granit Rose

We planed an alternative stop, anchoring at the Ile de Gildas near Port Blanc, but by the time we reached where we would change course to head inshore the wind had died to nothing, and the tide was with us. Arrival at Treguier was down to half past Midnight, and we decided to carry on since the sea was now calm enough for George to helm.

The sun set as we passed Ile de Gildas, and by the time we rounded Pointe du Chateau we were in darkness. We could see the Ile de Brehat lighthouse, with its 4 flashes, fireworks in the sky near Pleubian, and a host of lights in the bay ahead. Most were red, or cardinal flashing white; the greens were a lot less obvious.

Following a chart plotter course, with lighted buoys to check positions, is not too difficult, especially once we were in the bay and in totally flat water. It does take concentration though, and although I noticed the stars overhead I could not spare them much attention.

Once we entered the river we had to work even harder. The moon was not up, so there was very little light, and a lot of moored boats, although they were clear of the buoyed channel. We finally reached Treguier at half past midnight, wondering what we would find. It was nearly slack water at high water on a neap tide, so as relaxed as it gets on a tidal river. And there were spaces, lots of spaces, on the finger berths.

We went into the first berth we found, pointing down river in the last of the flood tide, tied Robinetta and Worm up securely, and went to bed. It had been a long day.

The lack of boats was partially explained next day by the harbour master, who thought the weather was so good people were anchoring in the river instead. Yachts that came in throughout the day had another suggestion. There was still fog at Roscoff, and in the Chenal du Four, so few people were moving east.

Small boat on a big pontoon