Weather window, Plockton to Loch Hourn

The next two days promise a lull before a gale on Sunday. We looked for the best place to sit out the bad weather, and decided on Mallaig as having the best shelter for the expected wind direction.

We dropped the mooring buoy in bright sunshine and headed over to the pontoon in Robinetta. We needed to put a cheque in the honesty box to pay for the mooring, and I did not fancy another row over in Worm. We had the lines and fenders all set, but as we approached we were warned off the only empty spot as the trip boat was going to come alongside. It was not a problem, as the people keeping the pontoon clear took the envelope for us so we did not need to stop.

Like yesterday we raised the main while still in the shelter of the bay, but today there was no turning back, the sea was slight, and we fine reached west heading for Kyle of Lochalsh. The wind was light, then went lighter. We took the reef out for the first time this trip, and Julian decided to change up from the No 2 jib.

There were black clouds and heavy rain over Skye, and by the time the number 1 jib was ready to use they were nearly on top of us. I decided not to fly the jib until the next tack, and was glad of it, when the squall hit. We went from 1 knot to 5 in 30 seconds, heeling well over until I came off the wind and let out the main. Julian put the reef back in sharpish!

The squall passed as quickly as it had arrived, and the wind died away as we went under the Skye Bridge. A fishing boat coming up behind us was very understanding as I lost steerage way and drifted across his path before I could get the engine on! We got the main down and motored to the Kyle of Lochalsh pontoon where we tied up for a late lunch stop.


Hector's Bothy did a good fish and chips, then we headed for the local hardware store. It used to be called Marine Stores, but had recently changed its name. We did not hope for much, as it contained standard home decorating/maintenance stuff, but we asked if they happened to have a boat hook anyway. Sorry, no boat hooks, but they did have a galvanised iron boat hook head, and broom handles.... We had a long chat with the ex-fisherman who served us, then headed back to Robinetta.

Julian spent the rest of the afternoon making the new boat hook while I did various boat chores, then we cast off at 1630, heading for Kyle Rhea on stay sail and jib. We were only making 2-3 knots but were not in a hurry as the tide would not turn in our favour until 1730. Once at the entrance to the narrows we furled the jib and went through on engine. We got a good boost through, making 5-7 knots. There were some swirly bits on the south end, but no overfalls or rips. In fact there was very little wind in the Sound of Sleet. We kept the stay sail up, but did not bother raised any other sails.

We could have gone all the way to Mallaig, but decided to have a look inside Loch Hourn. An excellent decision! We followed the Clyde Cruising Club directions to a sheltered anchorage behind Eilean Rarsaidh, and spent a peaceful night in beautiful surroundings.