I've significantly simplified the wiring for this season. Hopefully, it will be more reliable. So far, the indications are good.
I bought a proper crimp tool for the SuperSeal connectors. It's wonderful. I also got a box of connectors with 1, 2, 4 and 6 way versions. This gave me some ideas but if I do it again I'll simplify even further.
We should finally have a reliable anchor light. I just tested it and it's working and all the transitions have really good crimps on the SuperSeal connectors. I used a 6 way SuperSeal to unify the running light and anchor light wiring. But it needed a pair of 3 way gel crimps to split the port and starboard feeds and the whole thing would have been simpler using just gel crimps in the cabin and SuperSeals on deck.
I've replaced the trio of motorcycle accessories with a single unit. It has two USB A, 2 USB C and a voltmeter. I've re-used one of the existing cables for most of the run but re-purposed some thick single core for the rest. It's too thick to crimp so I've used chock blocks. It didn't work at first. I used the provided cable with spades and an inline fuse and the fuse holder wasn't making contact with the fuse. A bit of bending bits inside sorted it
The new cabin lights are really bright. Good for reading. We have one over each bench, something we should have done years ago.
I rewired the cockpit wiring to the stern light and tiller pilot. The stern light is minimalist, bell wire replaced cat5. The tiller pilot uses thick mains wire directly to the chock blocks by the battery switch with a new 2 way bulkhead socket and inline plug on the tiller pilot flex. We lose all the NMEA stuff but we have no intention to use it. This way it should never crash due to lack of voltage.
The bilge pump was working but the float switch was not. The wire had broken at the chock blocks. I replaced that with a 2 way gel crimp to join the float switch to 12V and a 3 way gel crimp to connect the pump to both the float switch and the manual switch. I had to file down the insulation on the float switch wires to fit the crimps but it should be more reliable, both mechanically and electrically.